Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 3¶
Published on Thu, 3 Apr 2025 23:30:33 +0000
Day 3 – Panerai, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Nomos & More
Synopsis¶
In this episode of Hodinkee Radio, recorded on day three of Watches and Wonders, hosts Jason Heaton, Malaika Crawford, Rich Fordon, and Tim discuss their favorite watches and impressions from the show. The conversation begins with an extensive discussion of Cartier's releases, particularly the Guichet jump hour watch, which features a stripped-down industrial aesthetic. Rich praises its vintage feel despite being thoroughly modern, though notes the apertures for the time display are somewhat small. The team also discusses the Tank Louis automatics, the new small Santos, and the unusual Tressage bangle watch with its braided gold construction.
The episode covers Panerai's updates, including a 12% case size reduction and a new perpetual calendar in Platinum Tech. They discuss how Panerai watches, particularly larger models, pair surprisingly well with tailoring and remain popular among certain demographics. Chanel receives attention for their J12 25th anniversary releases, especially a matte navy blue ceramic version that stands out from other brands' blue ceramic offerings. The discussion highlights Chanel's serious approach to watchmaking, including their ownership stakes in MB&F and F.P. Journe, and their long-term strategy modeled after their perfume business.
Other highlights include Chopard's new Quattro in precious metal from the L.U.C collection, which Rich particularly loved on the wrist, and Nomos's new Sport Club World Timer in multiple colorways. The team praises Nomos for clever GMT functionality at an accessible price point around $4,000. They also discuss Piaget's Polo 79 in white gold and various vintage-inspired pieces. The episode concludes with enthusiasm for IWC's Ingenieur 35mm, which all the hosts felt wore exceptionally well and represented better value and wearability than the 40mm version, with Jason particularly impressed by how it fit on smaller wrists.
Links¶
Transcript¶
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| Jason Heaton | This week's episodes of Hodinky Radio are proudly sponsored by our partners at UBS. Stay tuned later in the episode for what we're planning this year in celebration of all things horology. And keep an eye out for the return of UBS House of Craft. Hello and welcome to day three at Watches and Wonders. We are, of course, here for another episode of Vaninky Radio. Recapping some of the great watches we saw today, yesterday, maybe even the day before. It's been a hectic, pretty fun day uh today. Lots going on, lots of running around. I'm joined by Rich, Maleka, and Tim. And uh yeah, we've got lots of stuff to talk about. I know, I know, especially I've got uh I've got a chance, Maleka and Rich on the same show. We gotta do some cardia, I guess, right |
| Malaika Crawford | ? Okay. Because we got a little bit of OG in |
| Jason Heaton | yesterday, but there was sixty new watches. Some of them stuff I've never seen before or didn't know could be a watch |
| Malaika Crawford | ? Oh really? Just more and more P |
| Jason Heaton | anthers. Oh, okay, yeah. Pompe |
| Malaika Crawford | , it's a big motif. Yeah. But I feel like we should start with high level sort of, you know, important High level |
| Rich Fordon | . Yeah, what what what got you excited? Yeah. Guiche is |
| Tim | amazing. I love it. Uh it's like a st |
| Rich Fordon | ripped down super industrial tank. The all brush look, I mean it's it's for me when I pick it up, like I said, I get the feelings of a vintage watch and that rarely happens with stuff that is thoroughly modern. I don't mean that it's light. I don't mean that it's not well made |
| Jason Heaton | . It's |
| Rich Fordon | very convincing as a readdition and that's actually really hard to do. Many brands just don't get it right. Um, but in terms of commercial product, I thought the tank Louis automatics were great. The new gray dial in the Tank Louis is amazing. Um really a lot of stuff from Cartier that is like Ben was saying days ago super sellable. Um the new small Santos, both in all steel and two tone, is a watch that references the Gal B from the nineties and the eighties. |
| Malaika Crawford | Gal B. Sure |
| Rich Fordon | . Uh yeah, I thought it was really good |
| Malaika Crawford | . Can I ask you a question about Liam Guiche |
| Rich Fordon | ? Mm-hmm. I I |
| Malaika Crawford | really like it, but I'm struggling with the fact that there's so much um level surface area. Obviously there are no more like pronounced uh poincat on the side. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah. Like does it make it |
| Malaika Crawford | look kind of odd proportionally. Like that's a lot of surface area and obviously the apertures are quite small. |
| Jason Heaton | Yeah. How do you feel about that |
| Rich Fordon | ? I think if there's one criticism of the watch, it's the size of the apertures. It's it's hard given the way that jump hours work to make apertures larger. The discs would have to be larger there for the movement and to keep the case the size that they did to make it a something I would even call a readdition, it has to be that size. So then therefore the movement can't size up any further and the discs have to be that size. I will say in the photos, it's worse. |
| Malaika Crawford | Okay. In the metal, you have |
| Rich Fordon | all of three, maybe four numbers to look at, and it's quite easy to tell what time it is. I |
| Jason Heaton | found it to be perfectly glanceable. Right. It's small, but it's not a imperceptible note. |
| Rich Fordon | And I'm not saying that you can't tell what time is in the world. |
| Malaika Crawford | I probably can't, to be honest. I um tried on Eric Ku's uh 97, 96 CPCP version that night |
| Rich Fordon | . Kind of a different experien |
| Malaika Crawford | ce. Yeah. The one difference in this watch |
| Rich Fordon | versus the previous editions and even the original is that the minutes aperture is a bit lower. Okay |
| Malaika Crawford | . And I think maybe visually because they' |
| Rich Fordon | re so far apart, it makes them look smaller um but it does i said even compared to the vintage ones it more directly references the 1928 edition so the guichets is is a hard one to do a re-edition of because every one from the 20s and thirties is slightly different. Some, like you were saying, have brandcards, and I'm going to use my American pronunciation there |
| Malaika Crawford | . |
| Rich Fordon | Some have, some don't. The first one that they made does not. And it has that lower minutes register and they're wanting to be original to the original design. Um but yeah I do think it does make the the apertures look a little bit smaller |
| Malaika Crawford | . Okay. Yeah. Um that was a bunch of other stuff at Cartier, including a lot of gem setting, which obviously, you know, speaks to me. Uh I'm trying to remember. There's two bangles were pretty cool, but that's sort of high jewellery watch hybrid that's like, you know, that's you're balling out. Can we |
| Rich Fordon | talk uh tressage? Oh yeah, okay. |
| Malaika Crawford | I love the tressage, but people are either really into it or really freaked out by it. But I figured it out. It's holla bread |
| Tim | . I |
| Malaika Crawford | was talking to the Davidoff brothers and they were like, come on, Malaika, fellow, fellow Jew, Holla. And I was like, oh right, yeah, that's what it looks like. Um the the kind of or a unicorn horn, I'm getting unicorn horn. Yeah ye |
| Rich Fordon | ah I think it's really beauti |
| Malaika Crawford | ful uh especially in the plain yellow gold with the black strap. |
| Jason Heaton | Yeah. It's Do you know the weirdest thing it reminded me of? Well like I I held it and looked at it, and what popped up in my mind were the candy Richard Earls |
| Malaika Crawford | . Um my god, the bonbon collection, because of the like marshmallows. Yes |
| Jason Heaton | , the puffiness, and there's like it feels like they made a shape out of gold and then pushed air into it, and it kind of like because it there's like a surface tension to the way all the |
| Malaika Crawford | little nodules kind of lo |
| Jason Heaton | ad up. I called it we have this c |
| Malaika Crawford | andy in the UK that's like twisted marshmallows that are like really puffy and twisted. Do |
| Jason Heaton | es that have hilarious name? It's Twirlypuff |
| Malaika Crawford | . It's g |
| Rich Fordon | onna be funnier than twirly puff, isn't it |
| Malaika Crawford | ? They're called plumps. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah, and it was and it was. It was. I |
| Jason Heaton | wasn't even I I shouldn't even have bothered trying. You can't, yeah. Clearly you didn |
| Malaika Crawford | 't read in the CMS, did you? No, no |
| Jason Heaton | . Flumps and jammy dodgers. |
| Malaika Crawford | Some jammy dodges. Uh yeah, we love the tressage. I think it's it's interesting that they would |
| Jason Heaton | have gone with the name Tressage instead of Flump, but uh you know I'm not sure. Well it means braid |
| Malaika Crawford | ed in French. Okay. Uh and I don't know in case you didn't know I speak French. Uh I don't I don't think it's like a commercial product. I think it's just Cartier flexing on their jewelry. No, |
| Jason Heaton | it's never seen anything quite like it. It's definit |
| Rich Fordon | ely not. When I saw the photos in the press release, the first thing I thought of was God, I hope that arches to my wrist and doesn't fit weird because I want to love it |
| Malaika Crawford | . Yeah. And it actually fit really, |
| Rich Fordon | really well on my wrist. I think I was maybe at the top end of the spectrum where that arch starts to be a problem. Like if you're above seven and a quarter. Not that anyone like needs help buying this watch. I'm sure they would uh go and see it in person if they really wanted it. But it's just a cool thing, especially with the trend for weird shapes and like you know, tonight there's an auction at Sotheby's with all these strange things and his themed UFOs and that's really coming back and Cartier knows what they're doing |
| Malaika Crawford | . Um it looks you know it references like some classic styles of Cartier jewelry in the eighties. I think they're kind of just having fun, which is cool. But um yeah, Cartier is always a good time |
| Rich Fordon | . Absolutely. I |
| Jason Heaton | want to bring in our good buddy Tim here. Uh you know, you saw Panorai today. I didn't get a chance to see them. What uh what kind of struck you from them |
| Tim | ? Well, first of all, walking into the Ye |
| Jason Heaton | ah, it's quite a booth. The underwater booth |
| Tim | was a nice uh juxtaposition between the the bays around all around um but if but a few things caught my eye um uh first two updates to the luminore mariner uh collection um and as they told me they're not super sexy updates but they're updates that people wanted and people have demanded from previous collections. Um 12% decrease in case sizing while increasing in movement size and certain capabilities there. Also, what really was my personal favorite was the perpetual calendar, 45mm, the Platinum Tech. It's really nice. Obviously comes with the crown guards that Panorai is known for. |
| Jason Heaton | And it also you know comes in an alligator |
| Tim | strap, rubber strap. And uh what I really liked was the fact that not all the complications were on the front. Um they had a couple on the back, you had the power reserve on the back, you got the um leap year indicator on the back, you got the month on the back, and as they told me it was that's that's for you those complications are for you they're not they're not outwardly facing and obviously you know you have to take the take the take the watch off to see those so it was a really uh really nice I had a really nice time underwater with Panorai and it's got a really really nice booth and uh yeah, there's some really classic updates there. |
| Rich Fordon | Where are you at with the Panorai look? And I'm not setting you up for criticism, but I just wanna give you some context. Walking around the streets of New York, whenever I see a panorai, the guy is wearing tailoring like 80% of the time. Oh ye |
| Malaika Crawford | ah, tailoring. So as someone who wears a suit every |
| Rich Fordon | day and a tie, which you're known for at this point. |
| Malaika Crawford | Tim wears the suit and tie every day which by the way is iconic |
| Tim | why would i why would i why would i not i don't |
| Malaika Crawford | and i was like do we think tim wears a tie on the plane confirm |
| Tim | ed uh i used to i used to wear a full tom brown suit on the plane um for for many years. Uh now I go no tie |
| Malaika Crawford | . Okay. Um but it but |
| Tim | I think about it. I'm obviously wearing a blazer though. I mean, gotta |
| Malaika Crawford | wear a blazer. So as a man of you know, good taste and and suiting, are you wor yeah, that's a good question. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah, where are you at with Panorai as a brand and sort of the look? Because I think it it does translate at some level, but I've never been able to understand how it does. First of all, I |
| Tim | so I don't own a Panorai. However, like I I do think and, I come from a world of sport, I'm a big runner, I'm a big athlete. So um I I like the the the uh heritage with diving that comes along with |
| Rich Fordon | Panterai. Uh you know, the the |
| Tim | coloring of the of the dial in the lumer Americ collection, I I think actually really like. Um and I think it really pale pairs well with tailoring. Um I don't uh for me, I you know I'm maybe not the first watch I would buy. Uh maybe reach to it my my collection. Um however I could see I could see it working its way in there at some point. Uh and I I do think it pairs well with it's it's interesting. I've not seen that. Um but now I'll keep my eye out. It's like you know |
| Malaika Crawford | you'll see it everywhere. You know, now it's like you know, |
| Tim | uh when you drive a car for the first time, like oh I've never seen those anywhere and they just pop up everywhere now that you're noticing it. So I'll report back in a few months' time and and we'll we'll we'll see how many panor eyes I' |
| Rich Fordon | ve seen on the streets. But I think it actually could work |
| Tim | well. I want to see it someda |
| Rich Fordon | y. I want to see you in a panorama around the city. |
| Tim | You know, I I like it. Uh you know, I I tried 'em on today. Um the I I think they look really nice. And I think that, you know, I am wearing the navy suit today, really powered we're at the navy dials. I think it it works well. As we |
| Malaika Crawford | know I'm gunning for a panorai return just because Marino |
| Rich Fordon | . Everything comes back around and not to say that Panorai is not doing well, but uh the sizing with trends is currently a headwind. All right. You can't get around that. But like I said, when you see everyday guys around New York City, it's a lot of panic. Th |
| Malaika Crawford | ere's a lot of men who never like took off the panorai. Right. They like they put the panorai on in the twenty tens and it's still it's still |
| Jason Heaton | it it's it's it is hard to remember how big a deal they were in two thousand eight. Yeah |
| Malaika Crawford | huge. First story I ever wrote about a watch was a |
| Jason Heaton | panoramic. Obsessed with ratty mirrors. Still really love them. My tastes have shifted to towards smaller watches only because my wrists haven't gotten any bigger since two thousand eight. I just thought I'd keep growing |
| Malaika Crawford | . Yeah. But uh yeah it's a bonus |
| Jason Heaton | . But they're I I I r love the look. I really do. Um I I don't have a huge love of big watches, but then summer comes along and I've got a couple big watches, you put 'em on and they're just fun |
| Malaika Crawford | . I don't know how I don't know how it how |
| Jason Heaton | I think if if I wore it with a suit I would feel self conscious about it |
| Tim | . Yeah. If if it didn't kinda slide under but then |
| Jason Heaton | some of the ratty measures are pretty slim. Right. Well |
| Malaika Crawford | the best the best reference for me was that picture I sent you the other day when you were like, Who's I've never seen a picture of Mark Jacobs before and I burned James, but um he's just wearing a Mickey Mouse t-shirt, smoking a cigarette, and the panera is like hanging off his wrist. And I'm like, that is perfect. Incredible. I |
| Jason Heaton | mean to be fair, my uh one one of my one of the biggest fans in my life of Panoras and my wife who is a very tiny |
| Malaika Crawford | but she adores yeah 44 millim |
| Jason Heaton | eter luminars on loose bracelets on cheap women. |
| Malaika Crawford | Saren is what's up. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. It |
| Jason Heaton | 's a good look for sure. And I will say the forty four, I'd draw |
| Tim | it on the forty four, I've got a tiny wrist and it wore small. Like it it was big something big on my wrist, but it wasn't it wasn't hanging off my wrist basic |
| Jason Heaton | ally it's not the same forty four as a as a you know a big Rolex diver or a giant ring or or or a big IWC. Well look an another look, we're making some right turns, some zigs and zags here, so let's find another one. You wanna do a little bit of Chanel? 'Cause you were excited about, right |
| Malaika Crawford | ? I obviously, I don't know, obviously I am a big fan of Chanel, Chanel watchmaking. Uh they have brilliant minds at the helm of the brand currently, including their CEO of watchmaking, Frederick Ranger, I think his name is. He's like a little, he's an icon. He also used to work with Mark Jacobs back in the early 2000s. Th |
| Jason Heaton | ere you go. So he's like a man after my o |
| Malaika Crawford | wn heart. And they are obviously kind of interesting in the watch space given their recent acquisition of uh a minority stake in MBNF. They also own a minority stake in FPJ, Roman Gautier. They're kind of like out here doing a lot in watchmaking. The |
| Jason Heaton | Kinessi Connection. The Kinesi |
| Malaika Crawford | uh Kinessi Connection also they make |
| Jason Heaton | business is fascinating. Uh it's hu |
| Malaika Crawford | ge, it's varied, it's uh they make a lot of the ceramic for a lot of the big brands. Um so it's kind of interesting to see how much kind of influence they have and how much they take back from these smaller independent brands. So we had a good conversation about that. They've got this newly designed well kind of like updated J twelve in this navy blue ceramic which is to be honest with you when I look at kind of all the blue ceramic it's it's a trend, you know. Uh obviously AP, now Zena |
| Jason Heaton | , multiple brands. This |
| Malaika Crawford | ceramic blue is like elite compared to these other colours of blue. It's like a midnight midnight blue, black. Uh it's just a little bit more sophisticated, I would say. Fin |
| Jason Heaton | ishing is a different level as well, because it's mat |
| Rich Fordon | te. It's so stunning |
| Malaika Crawford | . Um and it's 25th anniversary of J12. They have this crazy flying tourbion with a diamond on the cage that's like insane and it's legit watchmaking. Uh they yeah they're like kind of killing it um and they're kind of doing it quietly. And I think they are going for this sort of long-term uh approach in the way that Frederick explained to me, just like they did with perfume a hundred years ago, they bought uh from the grass family, you know, the like the birthplace of perfume basically. It's still the same family who produces Chanel number five. And like they hope to do the same with watchmaking. So I thought it was very interesting |
| Jason Heaton | . |
| Malaika Crawford | All shiny and flashy and weird. |
| Jason Heaton | The funny thing is I feel like that was a a bit of a calling card for previous J twelves, that almost liquid like smoothness, that pebble |
| Malaika Crawford | shape, the roundness and the rest of it. And then you |
| Jason Heaton | see these in the mat and you just go like that is oops. |
| Malaika Crawford | It's so thick. It's subtle as well. Um and I think you know |
| Jason Heaton | it's such an interesting choice. It's an interesting |
| Malaika Crawford | way to go as well. And I try not to lean too much into the gender neutrality conversation, but obviously that's you know they're playing on that because that could work for men, that could work for women. I also think Chanel is not afraid to kind of own the fact that they are a brand for women uh and they're sort of proud of that. Um, but they I think they're gonna welcome more men into the fold probably quite soon |
| Tim | . And I will say, uh uh as a side note, um around town, you know, they have watches and wonders ads um with some of the releases. And I feel like Chanel has my favorite one of those. It's not even a picture of the watch. It's it's not white, it's not black, it's blue. |
| Malaika Crawford | Yeah. And I think that that I |
| Tim | I noticed that when I w when I came into town. I I really like that. You know, it's you it speaks to the power of the brand where they don't even need to put the watch on the ad. People know what it is. |
| Malaika Crawford | Yeah, I just think it's Chanel, you know, like you don't they don't really need help |
| Jason Heaton | . It's Chanel and they and like you look at the the w business elements that you talked to at the top. They have refused to approach watches like every other fashion. |
| Malaika Crawford | Right. They went, No, no, we can do |
| Jason Heaton | this our way with in twenty f five years, twenty years, you know, J2 |
| Malaika Crawford | ? Uh so they start they they bought uh a manufacture the name I can't remember, escapes me, in nineteen ninety-three. Um and then they developed the J twelve, it came out in 99, 2000. Um, and they've been doing like kind of crazy things ever since. We were talking about this dial on this watch they have that's like shaped like a seamstress pincushion. The dial was developed by Jules. So like kind of doing crazy cool stuff and in a legitimate way. That' |
| Jason Heaton | s the level they're playing it. Yeah. For sure. That's very cool. |
| Malaika Crawford | It's cool. S |
| Jason Heaton | pecial thanks again to our partners at UBS for their support of Hodinki Radio. Last October, Hodinki and UBS brought together some of the most influential personalities and brands in the industry to celebrate all things watches. This year we're partnering again with Experien Stay tuned to Hodinky for updates on these events and other projects with our friends at UBS. Now, back to the show. All right. Speaking of great watchmaking, you're just fresh back from Chopar, correct? |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah, just walked in the door from it. What'd |
| Jason Heaton | you think? Because you're a fan to begin with. I'm and they had some real variety this year. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah, I'm a big fan to begin with and uh maybe I talk uh in praise about the things that I do talk about, but I'm extremely picky about modern watches. |
| Malaika Crawford | Um |
| Rich Fordon | And I I mentioned to to people at Chopar who I have never met before when I was leaving, and I just said, you know, just that. I am extremely picky and I just want to tell you when I tell you that I like stuff from the L E C collection, it's because I actually do like it and I think that they're doing great things. Um, I think the new quattro is like it's in precious metal, I know it's expensive, but it is what they're trying to do is similar to a Patek discontinuing the 5711, their most like wanted for product, and they're making something very, very similar to the 1860 and salmon in different colors, yes, but that watch wears so so well and it's either 38 or 39. I didn't check my notes before getting on the podcast, but it was just on my wrist as someone who's wearing a 33mm watch. It wore so so well. The tweaks that they've made to the case and of the of that watch and other LUCs and will continue to carry out through the other models in the collection, they're not in a hurry to make those design tweaks. But when they come out with a new model, whether it's a new, it's more about the movement, if they make a tweak to the overall aesthetic or the movement, they will put that new case design in, but they're not in a rush. Um and they I don't know if they're gonna change the case of the 1860, which is what I asked them specifically about, um, because everyone loves that watch so much. But uh yeah, I just I walked back in the door, had that watch on my wrist uh for like most of the meeting. |
| Jason Heaton | Everything was okay. They showed that watch |
| Rich Fordon | second, I put it on my wrist and continued to look at other watches, but just kept that watch. Yeah |
| Malaika Crawford | . That's nice. Yeah. Very nice |
| Jason Heaton | . Yeah, so I so I like a watch. Yeah. |
| Malaika Crawford | Yeah. We're proud of you. Yeah. I can go |
| Rich Fordon | home now. Yeah. Okay, cool. Watches in |
| Malaika Crawford | one is twenty twenty five. Rich Fordin likes modern watches |
| Jason Heaton | . That's great. Well uh let's jump to one that I really liked. And it was a meeting you guys didn't come with. I I was with Tan Tan. I haven't been to a nomos meeting in a few years. They're just the schedules didn't line up. And this year they uh you know I I have uh uh a well-documented nerd level taste for multiple time zone watches, travel watches. And uh, you know, Nomos has had uh had their you know world timer uh the Zurich and such for some time and now they have a new version which in my opinion is in like a more everyday kind of friendly cheerful kind of outlay which is this sport club world timer it's in eight versions there's two standards and there's six LEs. all They have their own name. Each color has their own name. If you're wondering, I like volcano and glacier. Neither of those really seem to link up with the colors, but they look amazing. |
| Tim | Two two opposite ends of polar. Yeah, ex |
| Jason Heaton | actly. One's like a dark steely gray with some reddish accents and one's like a light blue, the glacier with like a tan accent and some some light red as well. And it's a a new movement. It's very thin. Uh it it largely captures the same function that you'd see in their other kind of multiple time zone watch their GMT um or the you know their world timer uh so you have the push button action that allows you to basically have a little sub-dial that's your home time and you sync the two and then when you travel you literally just update a ring for the city to put the new time zone you're in at twelve and as you do that the ring adjusts as the hour hand jumps it's just clever and if you've ever played with these sorts of things, and I'm sure some of you listening will, usually you press it three or four times and the first three or four are quite crispy, and then they get softer and then they they like half actuate. I just sat there just hidden again and again and it just spins and it just goes and goes and goes. It's nicely made. I really like the colors. I mean, nobles is just like it's lovable. The product they make is lovable. It's also you know, outside of things like the fair, which is a traditional 24-hour world timer, this is more of a GMT with a world timer aesthetic. Um, unlike something like the fair, they don't really have a ton of competition. We're talking about four thousand dollar price point on a bracelet if you want. I prefer it on like the Ahoy style strap. I'd probably just wear it on a NATO. Um Yeah, I'd I I it's I I love being excited about something from Gnomos. Uh so that makes me happy. |
| Malaika Crawford | Yeah, you came back with a giant smile on the face. I mean like a new G |
| Jason Heaton | MT. This is this is why I do this. And it does it doesn't look like my other 20 GMTs. This is great. |
| Malaika Crawford | Another one to add to the boat.. Yeah. Yeah Okay, cool. |
| Rich Fordon | Gnomos is a cool one because it's either you start at Gnomos and love the design because they've done a great job of keeping the look of the brand the same. Yep. Especially over the last two years, but adding in a bunch of color, ye |
| Jason Heaton | ah, which is cool. Um, but to get |
| Rich Fordon | back to my original point, you either start by loving gnomos or maybe you eventually after a long time be like, oh, I have to own own own a gnomos now. |
| Jason Heaton | So my thing with gnomos is always just extreme uh decision fatigue. Because there's s the you know, let's say the if if Gnomots makes thirty different models, twenty eight of them are very similar. Like they have this very specific, you know, Bauhaus derived work work bun style uh aesthetic and and it really does flow across. So like how do you pick between a a a tetra and and uh you know a a tango matic and a this and a that and they used to have a GMT in that model, which I really like. Um and I've always had kind of an an appreciation for the club, especially if you remember when they first launched the club, they did like a a silver with like the California dial |
| Rich Fordon | . It was just kind of fun and it was like |
| Jason Heaton | I think just under two brand, which is just a very reasonable for what they're offering. Take it up to something like this, you know, you're spending a bit more money, but I think you're getting something one that doesn't feel like it came from any other brand. Uh and two, I it the the use of color to to extend upon your your second point there, the use of color really helps me break up the decision fatigue |
| Tim | . Because I there's a function of lig |
| Jason Heaton | ht, there's a bunch of colors, so they're very obviously quite honest. Also, just credit where credit's due. I usually think that red on a watch is very difficult. Red and yellow, very tough colors to do. They have a red I've never seen on a watch before. That's really nice. A bunch of people in the booth were wearing it. It suited like different skin colors. Like red looks really weird on my. skin |
| Malaika Crawford | Do you think yellow is weird too? You like love yellow doxes. Yeah, but they do |
| Jason Heaton | a great yellow. Okay. I just think I don't think yellow's weird. Yellow's a very hard colour to get right. Yeah. Because the moment you make it shiny |
| Malaika Crawford | , yeah. Oh, the the Rolex yellow is |
| Jason Heaton | amazing. Okay. Yeah, that's great. |
| Malaika Crawford | And there's this nice uh yeah. Rolex is |
| Jason Heaton | yellow leans just slightly orange, which I really like |
| Malaika Crawford | . Yeah, |
| Jason Heaton | well if it's gonna be yellow, make it yellow. Make it |
| Malaika Crawford | yellow. Make it's sunshine. Yeah. Banan |
| Jason Heaton | as. Yeah, okay, cool. For sure. Just |
| Malaika Crawford | checking. Yeah. Uh speaking of color, Piaget. |
| Jason Heaton | Piaget. Piaget was a f oh yeah, |
| Malaika Crawford | Piaget was so fun. Um we Piaget was so fun. I went twice. Uh I went yesterday for a vintage presentation. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah. Which was fun. And then you came back and told me you need to go to Piaget. Yeah |
| Malaika Crawford | . I literally was like where is rich for it |
| Jason Heaton | . They |
| Malaika Crawford | sat down with a really beautifully designed sort of turquoise leather brief. It wasn't just |
| Jason Heaton | like a pelican. No, no. It was stunning |
| Malaika Crawford | , branded, not James Stacey style. |
| Jason Heaton | Stickers. The the the |
| Malaika Crawford | very lovely uh heritage director Anna opens the box. Stunning array of stone dials, shaped watches. Um so I dragged you back today and then we got to see the new polo 79 in white gold. Different. Super different in white gold. I said wearable, maybe more wearable than yellow. What did you think |
| Rich Fordon | ? Definitely more wearable. I think that comes with the territory of white versus yellow, especially in a wash with a full bracelet like that and such a distinct design. Um but funny part about the vintage |
| Malaika Crawford | uh appointment is it seems like word |
| Rich Fordon | 's gotten around because our appointment was quite busy. |
| Malaika Crawford | It was massive. I was like, where what happened to my one on one? So how |
| Rich Fordon | many people would you tell the about this vintage |
| Malaika Crawford | ? I thought I was special. Yeah, like guys, everybody come to the booth. Um no, it's cool to see the vintage because then you sort of take away the different elements and then you can sort of match them up to the modern releases. Um |
| Rich Fordon | And there's a direct reference for the new sixties, obviously if you can't imagine it's from the sixties. |
| Malaika Crawford | It's from sixty nine. Right. Yeah. Uh the new women's line, uh quite small, uh asymmetric shape. I think they're kinda cool actually. Yeah |
| Rich Fordon | , it's a bit like a television shape is what we call it in the vintage land. |
| Malaika Crawford | And television. Got it. How sophisticated. |
| Rich Fordon | We got sixty. Yeah. Yeah. The stories on the |
| Jason Heaton | site. Yeah. Story's live now on |
| Malaika Crawford | the site. Um check it out. |
| Rich Fordon | Yeah. Who wrote that one? Oh I'm not |
| Malaika Crawford | sure. Uh yeah, no, I love it. It's got a bit of a reference to the warhole with the stepped case too. Um we saw a new warhole. |
| Rich Fordon | We saw an insane new war. |
| Malaika Crawford | Uh they have two. Uh they have wait. Uh they have an opal dial mesmerizing. O |
| Rich Fordon | pal Popul dial. with uh very, very tiny baguette sapphires on each of the steps. Ye |
| Malaika Crawford | ah. And then a row just in case |
| Rich Fordon | . Just in case. A row of sapphires also on the case back |
| Malaika Crawford | . Yeah. Uh it was it's just an ins |
| Rich Fordon | ane thing, but I I the worst part about coming to this is that you seem to leave every booth liking the most expensive walk |
| Malaika Crawford | . I know. At least for me, and maybe that's |
| Rich Fordon | just uh yeah, my personality. |
| Malaika Crawford | No, I think that's most people. Um |
| Rich Fordon | but when it's insane like that, uh on a whole another level, then it's easier to make the case of like, yeah, well that's fine then you know. Yeah. |
| Jason Heaton | I do wanna I wanna run the clock just briefly because I just realized where we started this morning. I was quite excited. The IWC Ingenieur 35 absolutely rips on wrist. It's like I guess it's about two grand less than a 40 |
| Malaika Crawford | . It's a Val Fleurier movement, |
| Jason Heaton | so it's Richmont in-house. It's not IWC's in-house if that matters to you, by the forty, I guess. Uh I I think the sizing is more important on something that's time and date |
| Malaika Crawford | . It does rip. It rips. It rips. And it rips on your wrist and my wrist and your wrist. It's about I |
| Jason Heaton | think it's nine thousand nine fifty or something like that. Which is that's a punchy price point. There's a lot of competition at ten grand |
| Malaika Crawford | . Black dial, white dial. And it wears like th |
| Jason Heaton | irty-five. I will say |
| Malaika Crawford | the rose gold is very rose, but the dial is sick |
| Jason Heaton | on the rose gold. So the all it made me think was like the that new uh mono face with the Milanase bracelet, which is just stunningly gorgeous. Please check this out on the website. Even if you're not like if you're in your mind, you're like reversos. I don't know. |
| Malaika Crawford | No, no, no, no. The dial tex |
| Jason Heaton | ture matched with that bracelet. It's gorgeous. It's like it's like it's like the gold created something in its own world and brought it to us. |
| Malaika Crawford | Wow. It feels like that came right out of the |
| Jason Heaton | mines. Wow. What a visual. It's very cool. And and I think I got a little bit of that from the the original thirty five |
| Malaika Crawford | . really impressed with the way that they matched the dial. It's not like an exact match, but it's like the hue corresponds really nicely to the pink of the brace. Like it's just it's done really well and he looked great in the rose gold. Ye |
| Jason Heaton | ah, I I enjoyed it. You know, it's one of those things where I like the 40 quite a bit. And I think that after with you know two years on the market, they've kind of gotten to a point where people understand how it sits in the world of the Nautilus and now the cubitus and the Royal Oak and the Alpine Eagle. We could do this for about 25 more minutes. But I I really thought the watch was impressive. I I liked much of the lineup that they had this year, but like if you're looking at the tray of it, all of us started just picking up the 335s. |
| Malaika Crawford | Oh my god, the other I mean we were neglecting the 40s. A little bit like the the |
| Jason Heaton | green one for the F1 film, I think that's quite an interesting colorway. I don't remember the last time I saw like a metallic olive green with gold accents. And you know, tan tan big green fans, so we should get his his sort of feelings on on that. But uh |
| Rich Fordon | you wrote the story about they're calling that I mean, people around here are calling that the Brad Pitt |
| Jason Heaton | . Uh I don't think official name is uh is his character's name. |
| Rich Fordon | Who is here? He's here right now, actually. He' |
| Tim | s gonna be on the show in just a couple of minutes. Yeah. Oh |
| Jason Heaton | , and that's where it cuts. Um but you've not found you wrote the story about |
| Rich Fordon | the the customized version and Cooper Zelnik had made it uh how close is it? |
| Jason Heaton | It's not that close. I like I think they share like a a similarity but that one's based on the SL. G |
| Rich Fordon | otcha. Which is like a different case shape. But you know, |
| Jason Heaton | they're all from that that same ingenuity line. But the new the the one for the F1 movie, uh, which is part of several watches for the movie, uh, but this is the one that Brad Pitt's character wears, uh is said to wear in the film. I haven't seen the movie. Um, but uh I think I think it's they kind of took that inspiration and then fit it into what how they current currently run the line. Cool. Because I I believe the version that he was wearing in the spy shots didn't have, you know, like the cross check uh grid style dial and that sort of thing. But yeah, I wanted to squeeze that in at the end of the episode because I I just thought those 35s were sweet |
| Tim | . Absolutely. And uh the other plus is is |
| Jason Heaton | uh with a small watch like a 35, even when they put all the links in, when it closes, it fits my wrist. Unlike a full size forty has you know like five spare links. And I've said this before uh for people who listen a lot. Those integrated braceless sports watches are two different things, sized and unsized. It's you you're getting you're missing like thirty percent of the |
| Malaika Crawford | constantly like this. Yeah. I |
| Jason Heaton | mean sometimes we get handed ones that must have eight spare links and I'd like you could literally just like |
| Malaika Crawford | two watches. But okay. |
| Jason Heaton | Anyways, that's the episode for today. That's day three. I hope we covered some of your favorites. If not, let us know in the comments and we can get it into tomorrow's episode. We've got a very busy schedule tomorrow all over town. I get to see my favorites. One one of my favorites from the show with Doxa and they've got a GMT, so James is gonna be in a good mood, I think. And I hope you guys enjoy the episode and we'll see you tomorrow. Thanks so much for being on it, guys. |
| Rich Fordon | Nice |