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Hodinkee Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024 | Day 3: Hermès, Oris, Chopard, and Parmigiani Fleurier

Published on Thu, 11 Apr 2024 22:44:49 +0000

Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.

Synopsis

In this episode of Hodinkee Radio, recorded live from Lucid Studios in Geneva during day three of Watches and Wonders, hosts Tony Traina and Danny Milton are joined by Malaika Crawford to discuss their observations from the watch fair. After a wrist check revealing Danny's green-dial Omega Seamaster, Malaika's Rolex Explorer, and Tony's vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the conversation turns to the notable releases of the show.

The team discusses Hermès' new Cut collection, a 36mm sport watch that both Danny and Malaika found surprisingly appealing despite initial skepticism from press images. They praise its thoughtful design details, including the unusual 1:30 crown position necessitated by the beveled case sides, and note how Hermès successfully created a watch that appeals beyond their traditional customer base. The discussion extends to Cartier's miniaturized Tank models and the broader trend toward smaller vintage-inspired pieces.

A key theme emerges around the absence of major "hero pieces" at this year's show. Danny observes that unlike previous years with headline-grabbing releases, 2024 focuses on solid, commercial watches that retailers and customers will appreciate over time rather than generating immediate hype. The group discusses Oris's refined Aquis, Chopard's new steel Qualité Fleurier and titanium Alpine Eagle, and Parmigiani's relaunched Toric collection. They also debate the proliferation of green dials in the industry, questioning whether manufactured trends truly constitute meaningful innovation. Throughout, the hosts emphasize quality, wearability, and thoughtful design over spectacle, suggesting the industry may be experiencing a necessary recalibration after years of hype-driven releases.

Transcript

Speaker
Tony Traina This episode of Hodinky Radio is brought to you by Lucid Motors, pioneers in luxury electric vehicles. Experience the fusion of high-end technology and sustainability with Lucid. Dive into the world of EVs and design with us. We're recording again here live from Lucid Studios in Geneva
Danny Milton . Welcome to another episode of Hodinky Radio. I'm here with Tony Traina and Melica Crawford back at Lucid Studios in Geneva on day three of Watches and Wonders. We're podcasting, we're talking, we're opining. Before we do that, let's say what talk about what we're wearing. Tony, what watch you have on today?
Tony Traina Danny, first of all, how do you feel about that intro? I've done two pretty good ones, I think. Uh you did okay, right
Danny Milton ? I did okay and your your ad reads and everything, you're just you're on fire. I mean I think Ben complimented you day one. No one complimented you yesterday, but you deserved a comp
Tony Traina liment. The big boss, listen, we've heard the comments. We're doing a little wrist check today. Danny, start
Danny Milton us off. Alright I'll start us off. Sure. I am wearing uh an Omega Seamaster professional with the green dial green bezel uh released I think two years ago, maybe, but it's uh the only modern seamaster diver professional that I like because it doesn't have any any of that red nonsense. I
Tony Traina gotta say, a provocative, slightly subversive move, even Swatch Group notably absent from Watches and Wonders. It is the most around. It's the most Swiss thing I could do. I am neutral in every booth I go
Malaika Crawford into. I suppose so. Meleica, wrist check. Um I had to look down there to check and see
Tony Traina what I was wearing. Um Rolex Explorer one. If you know Melica, this is probably the watch you've seen on her wrist at some point or another. It's a classic, and that's all we have to say about this. It's this or Sapenti. I don't do anything else. Here's the thing I have to say about wrist checks. It's not that I don't like wrist checks, it's that people opine about their watches when you kinda heard it all about the Rolex Explorer one, no offense, or even the Green Dial Omega Speedmaster or Seamaster, excuse me. Um can
Malaika Crawford I just make a sort of little kind of argument for why I wear this at at watch fairs. Please. This is the most versatile thing you could wear at the fair. True. You take it off, you put it in your bag, you don't worry about it. You try other things on and then you know, we didn't get too precious. Tossing the R
Tony Traina olex in the bag. We love to hear it. Meanwhile, meanwhile, you're wearing just go ahead, Tony. Uh I put my explorer in the bag speaking of. I've got a GG Le Colte Reverso here. This is if you followed the site, I wrote a story about the Corvo Reverso, the story of kind of the Reverso that brought back the Reverso in the 1970s. They used 1940s cases for these watches. Um, check out that story if you want to learn more about this watch. I'm not going to belabor the point here on this very podcast. We're here to talk about new watches and what we saw today. Danny, we are starting, of course, as I look at my notes, how could I forget that we're starting with Melica's uh and yours appointment at Hermes, an appointment I was not able to go to. But I think the big news, Malaika, from Hermes, is that they've introduced an entirely new line of watches. They are called the Cut. They're thirty-six millimeters.
Danny Milton Um you always set me up and you're talking to me and then it has nothing to do with me. You were in the meeting. Danny, we were at this place. Mel
Tony Traina ica. I think we just leave this in. I like it too. Um I think we leave it in because you were in the meeting and I want to it gets to the point I want to make about these watches, but I want Melica to start before Danny uh you drop in and talk about uh sounds good
Malaika Crawford the cut. So I have a sort of deep fascination with the world of Ms and its watches because it sort of exists in it in its own little microcosm, right? Like Ms are mostly making watches for their existing customers. It's like you go into MS and you make your way up to the top, you know, you start with a scarf or you start with whatever and you end up hopefully if you have the funds uh buying sort of bespoke birkins um and you're you're buying your watch at MS you're buying everything at MS right unless you're sort of a cape called high school fifteen year old girl. I wouldn't know. Anyway, I'm laying it down for a little direct eye contact with Tony. I'm laying down the sort of different entry points to M as, you know, watches, but I think mostly it sort of exists in it as its own thing. And Tuesday they release the cut and we see kind of them attempt a a sort of like everyman piece, maybe every woman piece, because they're marketing this as a woman's watch, but not really every every people. Every people. I guess it depends on which market the verbiage that you use, right? Like USA, unisex, maybe other markets you're saying for women, I don't know. Uh what was interesting is that instead of shrinking the H08, uh they made a new watch for women, a sport watch. And actually, I'm gonna say I tried it
Danny Milton on and I really liked it. And you said to me this is like the one kind of watch where your taste and mine intersect. Yeah. Because really wasn't a diss
Malaika Crawford . No, I it's a it's a compliment. Yeah, yeah. No, because here's the thing. I saw pictures of that watch and I I'll be honest, it wasn't, you know, the most dazzling thing I've seen. But I knew that when I saw it in real life I was gonna like it because it's Ms. So it's well designed, everything is proportionally correct, the typography is very nice nice. Very. Yeah. And it looked great on you. And it looked great on me, if I do say so myself. Interchangeable straps, the whole shebang
Tony Traina . Well, Danny, this is where I wanted to tee you up a little bit because it's a 36mm I'm not how how many? I said any number, Danny. Got it, got it. Um I put them all on mute., honestly WhatsApp or iMessage? You know you're deep when it's WhatsApp. Yeah, sure. No, I uh I don't let people into the iMessage, honestly. It's personal. It's personal. Okay. A lot of folks in my tiny corner of the world that are talking about these jewelry watches, these design driven smaller vintage watches, Melica, we've talked about these types of things on the podcast before. They're looking at the thirty six millimeter of the cut and they're saying, Ah, interesting. So Danny, from your perspective, what are we looking at? That was more offensive than the
Danny Milton intersection of taste thing. Yeah. I'm just kidding. No, no, it it's um I knew um mm we had heard about this watcher thing maybe a two or three weeks ago and I said this in the meeting. It's the kind of watch you look at even in the press images. It doesn't dazzle you or anything, but you get it immediately. It's just well designed. Um and putting it on it has very similar proportions to the explorer. Yeah. Um so it wears extremely true to size. Um and similar to what I like about the H08 or even sort of the time only Slim to Hermes type stuff is the little details get all of the attention. So the links of the bracelet, the clasp, the custom typography, the orientation of even the Hermes logo on the dial relative to the hands. Um, it's extremely legible. Whether we were seeing it in steel or in the two-tone rose and steel configuration, I preferred the steel obviously. Um, it was just something really clear about the watch, and maybe it speaks to Hermes and it's like storied past, but it understands how to design something. I think period I think it's just like very clean. It is. Um without being like a derivative. But the branding is so clear, don't you think? But that's like M as Exactly, but not but there's brands out there that
Malaika Crawford can't. So it's like you could look at that watch and be like Aquina
Danny Milton And that's the other thing. So the cut the major, I guess, you know, design difference between it and a conventional watch is the a one thirty right the crown. The the the crown at the top right of the case, which you know you think about four thirty crowns on dive watches and things like that. Um here it was not done for any sort of I don't know thoughtless reason but because the way that the cut is cut on the sides of the case which are symmetrical there was no way to put a crown at three o'clock. It would sort of disrupt the symmetry. So it's beveled on each side. It's beveled on
Malaika Crawford each side. Yeah. So there's like a contrast in the texture of the like polished and satin brushed. And then in order to keep the line, the integrity of the line. Yeah. Um, they've put the crown at one thirty. And it's the kind of watch that is clearly like being thought out by somebody who is like a you know, it's designy. It's designy. Yeah. Um it's cool
Tony Traina . Melica, I want to keep it with you for just a second because we talked about these a little bit uh yesterday, Cartier and the tiny tanks, the tiny tank Louis, the tiny tank American. Uh obviously kind of an extension of like what we've seen with the Banoir and these like really small watches, but I want to get your perspective on whether or not these watches are sort of successful and what they set uh set out to do. Um
Malaika Crawford you know, I think it's interesting because I sort of do that whole eye roll thing when people talk about tiny watches these days. Um, but actually, there's something about the tank mini that I think only Cartier could do. What they've done, instead of making a tiny tank, they just have literally downsized the tank Louis. Like it's just a mini tank Louis. Honey, I shrunk the watch. Well, did you see my deck in the Yeah. You saw my deck in the CMS
Danny Milton . He edited that deck, baby. You did? Did you write that? Is this like it's something that's not published yet? Yeah. Didn't see it. It's I my deck same. Honey,
Malaika Crawford I shrank the tank.. Th Thereere you you go go. I love that. Um, no, no, it's like the kind of thing where it it's they're not marketing it as like the mini tank for ladies. It's just here we are, we shrank the tank.
Tony Traina Um yeah, I think someone also pointed out to me that the price is basically equivalent to uh you know the love bracelet like a gold love bracelet. Right. Let's not put
Malaika Crawford that watch though like on the same sort of like I don't want to put it in love bracelet world because I think it like here's the thing, the Benoit Bangle to me, that's jewellery.
Tony Traina This is just like a tiny watch. Yeah. Well I can I find it compelling for that very reason someone might buy this and be attracted to watches instead of a bracelet if they're just walking in for the what
Malaika Crawford I was like so surprised by was Ben's reaction to it. He was going And and I asked him and I was like, Why is it that you like this watch so much? And he was like, Because it's sort of like a new watch wearing experience for me. And he kind of the fact that he's drawn to it makes me think it's not gimmicky, that it is just like a
Tony Traina cool way of doing a small watch. Aaron Ross Powell We talked about everything else from Cartier yesterday, the Tortue and everything else, and Danny and I spoke a little bit about the the tiny tanks as we as we're calling them now, whatever the the the actual name might be at Cartier. So I think we'll we'll leave the discussion tank mini. We'll leave the discussion there for the day. Uh but before we get on to the next part of the discussion, become immersed in the essence of luxury with Lucid Motors, where every journey is an experience of unparalleled comfort and advanced technology. Lucid Motors commitment to sustainability is not just in its electric innovation, but in every detail of the Lucid Air's design. Experience a new era of luxury travel with Lucid Motors or learn more at Lucidmotors.com. And as as I've said every day, also think about coming down to the studio here in Geneva. We've been enjoying our time here every day recording after the show. It's a nice escape from the madness of the Palexpo. But Danny, speaking of the madness at the Palexpo, one of the the most insightful things you've said to me, among many, if I may add, uh, at the show today was that there aren't any big sort of headliner hypey pieces like we saw last year, but a lot of the retailers I ran into a a a retailer, fri aend of mine from Chicago, actually, uh, who said something like this. Some of the commercial folks that that we know a little bit at the hoodinky shop have said this. There are just a lot of good everyday watches that people are going to walk into their retailer. They're going to see on the hodinky shop if I may be so bold as to plug our own very site. Uh and they're just going to see these watches. They're going to buy them and they're going to be their everyday watches that they might not even think about. Uh but they're going to love them. They're going to wear them for a while. Uh this is something you said to me when we were in the aurus meeting, yeah, seeing the new Aquas. So I want you to talk about what they've done to sort of refine and update the Aquas. And if you wanna zoom out a little bit and talk about like what I just said and explained from your perspective there after talking about Oris, that'd be great too. Yeah, I mean
Danny Milton no the Oris Oris obviously revamped the Aquas in a way not dissimilar to how Rolex might quote unquote revamp the submariner, which is just like if you looked at two Aurus Aquas side by side, you're liable not to know you're looking at two different watches. Um so it's just improving a good solid dive watch and making it better. But my point is now it's sort of like twofold because there's a there's I think there's a little bit of an issue with how the watch industry has been handling things, let's say the last five years, which is there have been serious hero pieces for brands every year, and the expectation then becomes that a w a brand needs to innovate and wow in surprise every release year. And that's difficult for an industry that expects you to buy something where the value proposition for any watch in the price segments of the ones we talk about is that they should ostensibly last forever. And even though like people collect watches and things like that, if you're only looking at the the big hero pieces, you're missing sort of like the secondary stuff. And I think this year it's all secondary stuff.
Malaika Crawford But also let's think about how most people buy watches and how many watches most people
Danny Milton own. I don't know if you know, there'd be years where um like last year with the Oris Kermit, for example, to stay with Oris, because they rarely have a watch like that where it comes out and you can sense the excitement, therefore you would feel compelled to buy it like today
Malaika Crawford . But isn't having a hero piece just a sort of marketing technique to get people
Danny Milton Totally. And that's why this year I'm I'm I'm assuming that friends like your retailers are probably like a little bit maybe thrown off by the energy because most likely a lot of the sales they'll see will be months down the road as people sort of like digest and take this in and understand like there wasn't something that we needed to focus on, but that Ourus Aquas diver is a really solid choice. Or even the Hermes the Cut, which is like just a solid ass watch. And people will buy that. They will buy that watch, but you're not gonna have like bum rush at the door of the Hermes boutique to get it, but you'll start seeing I think the cuts on more wrists than you might see in H08, I think. A hundred percent. Right? And so um again, like I want to reiterate, I said this on the first day. Like this is a year where my favorite watch was a rose gold day date. And like any other year that would have been like the tertiary release. Like I watched it like I probably would have been like that's fine. But like I'm really into whatever, like the the lefty GMT or whatever it is. It's just like we're missing we we didn't have any tricks. Yeah. And and so with when we were in Oracle, I realized like even speaking to like the brand a bit about it. I think everyone just treats us here as kind of like you know
Tony Traina a palate cleanse. Well, this is the way it used to be, right? People would brands would announce things in April or in the spring or whenever the show was, SIHH was earlier in the year, and it wouldn't show up in retailers for I don't know until the holidays sometimes, right? This is the way things used to work. And it it changed in the last few years when the industry got like, you know, kind of frothy or whatever words you want to use where there was a certain pride in like I don't know, I remember the tutor Black Bay fifty eight blue when they kinda just dropped that at their retailers one one day in the middle of June 2020 or 2021. I can't remember what year. But there was a certain pride in being the first one to get the call or uh, you know, having people having people reach out to their their ADs or their retailers right away uh and like forming a forming a list or a line for these like really in demand watches. And that's not the reality is that's not sustainable, right? That can only go on for so think about this. I
Danny Milton 'm wearing an omega today, and if you think about Omega since January of 2023, has not when it did the um super racing with the spirate uh of uh movement technology, Tony and I are intimately familiar with. Since January of 2023, we are now in April of 2024. Omega has literally not released truly a new new, kind of watch. Last year they had that anniversary for the Seamaster. It was just a, you know, an array of dial colors for an entire collection, but like in the absence of the trade show on the periphery, because we all zero in on Watches and Wonders. Like a a brand like Omega is like had sort of a palate cleanse approach for a year and a half. Mm. That's kind of interesting from like a market perspective. What is that? Uh can you just unpack like spin it forward. What is that that what does mean, Danny? I'm not really sure if it if it means that you know there needs to be a bit of course correction and you know it it's happened in the past in the watch world whether it's like trends of color or trends of style come in. I think Can somebody please talk to me about this
Malaika Crawford green dial obsession? As like I just i as somebody who's like you know, I've only been in watches for like what, three years now. Um, I do not get it. Like what what is going on? I truly don't know. Why is green dial like innovation. I I don' didn'tt even think so is it because people like green like I
Danny Milton do what somebody explain it to me. So I personally think it like blue dial stuck at some point, right? And has never stopped. Okay. And I just think at some point and probably if we had to think about who spearheaded this, if if you can really remember and let's say the last year. What's that? Two thousand five GMT. Could be'. But isnt but is but isn't always isn't isn't it always Rolex? Yeah, well I guess because they're the color green. Like I don't know something. And then there was the green aqua the green Nautilus. Remember that? Right, right, right. And so when you Well before that it was the may
Tony Traina or Daytona. Right. Relically. Sure, again, when did we run that will? In eighteen or nineteen? Uh
Danny Milton eighteen could be nineteen. No, I think it was I think it was uh that episode of Talking Watches. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But that that watch was a twenty sixteen release because I think it's it it got hot. Yeah. Yeah, but it was a nothing watch. Exactly,
Tony Traina exactly. A nothing watch, yeah. So maybe maybe John Mayer did it. Maybe you know, it all it all goes back to that, I think.
Malaika Crawford It just feels very sort of like everybody talking about trends, but to me, it doesn't, it's like what are we talking about? A trend's not a trend
Tony Traina when it's when it's manufactured, right? Yeah. Right. Yeah, Malica, I think you've made this point in an article. Uh there are so many like mini niches in the watch world where uh it feels like everything is a trend, which means nothing is a trend. Yeah. We talk about it I I don't want to mention the I don't want to talk about this anymore. Here's the here's the Piaget mentioned, Melica, but we talk about these types of things. Uh and on all those types of trends and the broader things for jewelry watches, whate
Malaika Crawford ver. We've talked about it on the podcast. We're not gonna talk about it again. I feel like green dials is like the mass market equivalent of being into piagé for vintage people
Tony Traina . Maybe it is. Uh blue and green are the most universally loved colors. And it's And the Rolex Hulk. Rem
Danny Milton ember that watch? Uh that was a very popular watch. I do remember that watch. Do you remember that? I'm shocked. I didn't remember that watch. That was like a truly transformationally popular watch. Right. Uh
Tony Traina yeah, that's true. Thanks for thanks for reminding us about one of the most transformational watches of of the past twenty years. Okay. Uh yeah, but it also is as simple as the fact that like the the sky is blue and the grass is green, so these are the most uh these colors are in our DNA guys. Damn that was good. No, I I read this in a book about art recently. Oh cool. No, it's quite universal actually. The most they've done studies about this. Our eyes in the art world are drawn to to paintings whatever that are are blue and green. These are the most popular colors. That makes a lot of sense. I mean like nat naturally You should read one as guide to to color
Danny Milton . Yeah we'll we'll take that
Tony Traina in into consideration. Tony and I saw a green watch today that I can't talk about. We both liked it. Right. So sorry. Okay. We've got two more brands we're gonna talk about pretty quickly, guys. They kind of fall into the same general category for me, of these like classic traditional dressier watches, might I say. Danny, a couple of weeks ago you came out here and you saw the new Chopard releases. I wrote a couple of them up for the intros on the site. Uh we haven't s I haven't seen the Chopard stuff. Uh uh I we haven't had an appointment yet. That's right. But you've seen some of the watches. They did a new qualité fleurier. Love Qualité Fleurier. As well as another much better. As well as another L U C with a sector style dial, and then a um another Alpine Eagle that I know you want to talk about a little bit. So give us the rundown on Chopard and what they continue to sort of do right or different I think Chopard is do
Danny Milton ing well, it has like three distinct lines that it likes to operate in from its sort of like grown popularity. And one is the Alpine Eagle, one is this sort of like traditional LUC sort of dressier side of things. And then you have the the Milamiglia uh what about happy diamonds? And of course happy diamonds. So let's say four. That's actually really true. We may not like it. I will admit that's the most popular watch. But people wear happy diamondss.. That' true. Okay That's true. Yeah. Um and I have a happy, happy, happy uh lamp to remove so it's hard for to say that I I for I forget about it. Right. But when I saw the watches uh at the show part manufacture um i wasn't expecting to really love them as much as i did and especially like the l u c stuff which i know you're particularly uh a fan of the qualité fleurier was a it's a beautiful, it's a beautiful watch. It's a beautiful exe
Tony Traina cution in steel, I believe. It's in steel for the first time. So they introduced the Quality Fleurier 2005 was the first model. They've always done it in precious metals. It's in loosened steel, Danny. Don't you forget. Proprietary for the first time. So it's it's under twenty thousand dollars, which is really exciting actually. Basically the let's just call it the QF. I don't know if that's sort of what they use, but we'll call it that. It's just basically a super certification. They do some other things beyond Geneva SEAL and chronometer certification to to really uh oomph the the technical interest for people that are interested in that. Give it a give it a little oomph, Melica. But it's a it's actually an independent certification board that that Shopard and four other manufacturers based out there uh founded in the early two thousands and not a ton of brands submit to them still, so it's cool to see that Shopard is still kind of committed to that. The sector style dial on the other LUC is nice as well. The reality is though these are forty millimeter watches, they're big watches. The sector dial fills it in, but it's still gonna wear uh a little bit big on the wrist, but I think the design helps uh it it gives it a little bit more of a a compact effect and at least there's more going on there than than in previous iterations. But Danny, uh what'd you think of the the Alpine Eag
Danny Milton le that they that they did? So you know and Maleca knows I'm a I'm an Alpine Eagle fan, Malica, you're an Alpine Eagle fan. I actually am
Malaika Crawford , honestly an Alpine Eagle fan. And I am also weirdly sort of a bit of a secret open work fan. Interesting. Yeah, it's probably AP brainwashing. For sure. Without without brain. Because we all know where mine is. It happens to the best of us. Yeah. I like it. If you yeah. So I think obviously when I saw that, I haven't seen it in person, but all I could think of was the San Maritz that Phil Toledane actually probably recently sold because he's always flogging his watches on Instagram. Uh but I was really into that and so it was cool to see kind of like the twenty twenty four version. Um sort of that was like a weird coincidence maybe. Super and also I mean the watch is it's made in titanium, which is even a little bit of this watch. It's like super lightweight. Like what's the size? It's the
Danny Milton same forty-one millimeter. Yeah. Yeah, that's a lot of dial. And you know what's cool about this watch and even the XPS, which was last year's XP variation, which that was a great watch. Yeah. Correct me if I'm wrong, but these are the LUC uh laid-in versions of the Alpine. So they're shoe pot is low-key killing it. No, they're killing it. Like I forgot how much I like that watch. Yeah, okay, cool. And so this one with the titanium last year with the salmon dial and with the salmon dial watch, I believe introduced This is a super pedantic thing. You are being insane. I can't take off the bracelet if I have no reference point to take it off from. Okay, right. So when it's a butterfly class, we have to stick my finger underneath the bracelet to get it off. Now I have two little buttons on the side. I've been told I've been told it's gonna come to the entire Alpine Eagle range, but it's on this titanium version, it's open worked, it's it's beautiful in person. Did you try it on? I did try it on and light as a feather? Light as a feather. You can weirdly see your arm, your skin through the other side of it. Um What's that like? It's not my favorite. Okay. Um but that watch is one of my favorites of the show. I think it's kind of sick
Tony Traina . Another brand that I kind of associate with Chopard in a way is Parmigiani, which I saw these watches today. You all have not seen these, right? We didn't know. Okay. So the big news from Parmigiani is they've relaunched the Toric collection. It's kind of the That's your collection, isn't it? How do you mean? I don't know. I feel like that's sort of your Well Why do I associate that? Well let's get into it and see if it is if it is or is not my collection. Here's the thing. They re-released the Tori after kind of quietly letting it go the last few years while they focused on the PF, kind of the sportier watch, right? One of the more elegant sports watches on the market, uh, in my opinion. And they've done some great things with that. But this year they focused on the Toric, which was kind of originally released in the 90s. It has this quite neoclassical vibe if you look at the original watches that they're associated with ye then. I'm neoclassical? Yeah. Yeah, thank you. I get that a lot. Um it had these bezels that were kind of inspired by Roman columns, and it's it's an acquired taste, honestly, but a lot of people have been digging it a lot lately, the vibe. Digging. They've been digging the toric. But uh for this new release, they did a couple of a couple of things. First of all, aesthetically, they really minimalized everything. It feels feels very much in line with a lot of what Parmigiani's doing. Yeah, it's what they did with the the PF, right? The dial is super minimal now. The cases as well, uh a lot cleaner. A lot cleaner, but it the other thing they did was upsize it to forty millimeters. So they released time only watches um in forty millimeters in platinum and in rose gold. And then they've also got this beautiful ratropant that's forty two millimeters. This seems quite strange to upsize I agree. Right now. Right now. Yeah. I I agree. Uh and I think it's kind of a the lugs are relatively short, so it doesn't wear terribly on wrist, and I think perhaps if the PF collection is any indication they'll they'll give us the 36 millimeter version later down the road. But um yeah if you're gonna relaunch a collection like this I think you've got to have something more than a forty millimeter watch nowadays if it's gonna be a dress watch that's all minimal. What's the price point on that? So the other thing is i i if you look at it it's okay, I'll I'll I won't bury the lead. It's fifty thousand dollars basically for the platinum the rose gold is the platinum is closer to sixty US the platinum or the rose gold is about fifty US I think um the movement is rose gold. It's finally finished. It's everything you would expect from Parmigiani. Um, but it's a fifty thousand dollar watch. We talked about the nineteen oh eight on day one in platinum, that's a thirty thousand dollar watch. And it's we just talked about Chopard the. The QF is a twenty thousand dollar beautifully made dress swatch that gets everything that Chopard has to offer. So it's a tough price point, especially at forty millimeters, you're not offering something that that people aren't gonna look to paddock, Rolex now, Chopard, any other number of brands. So I think I would have liked to see more from them in sizing, uh in other things. But I will say I saw the the introduction article on our site on day one and you do feel the quality of these watches in person in a way that's not conveyed. I think because um it's so simple. Because it's so simple you look at it and it it doesn't look like much, but you do feel the craftsmanship and the quality when you handle them
Malaika Crawford . That brand is particularly good at being like very elegant and understated. I agree. Yeah. Yeah. Very true. Ye
Tony Traina ah. Yeah. So I like I like aesthetically what they did because of the way it actually feels in hand is is really really nice. But I hope that they do more with the collection, especially in sizing. I think there's things they can do with complications as well. A ratropon is a fascinating place to start, but at probably 150,000 US and 40 pieces, uh it's something that I'll probably never see again and doesn't really move the needle on a more global scale. That said, it's interesting to see a new collection from Parmigiani, a brand that's been really fascinating to me over the past few years. Yeah. Anything else you guys want to add there? Should we close it there for I'm I'
Malaika Crawford m uh just gonna add this little sort of um epilogue. Go for it, please. I really liked this very sort of outlandish pink sapphire J12. It's called the X-ray. I knew Tony wouldn't let me talk about it unless I just went for it. Um I think it's really cool. I think Chanel are doing cool things, and I think you should pay more attention. I didn't get to see it, but I saw James editing the photos. And so I'm excited to read your story. It might not be your taste, but hey, they're doing something that Chanel's always doing something very
Tony Traina they don't care what anybody thinks. Yeah. I appreciate Chanel in ways that I don't appreciate uh certain other brands. They knew who they are and they don't really care what you think about them. And you cannot say that for a lot of brands. They truly do not care. Danny, anything outlandish you want to add before we close out the show? I don't want to add anything outlandish. Yeah. Neither do I. So this is day three at Watches and Wonders. We'll leave it there for today. We've got one more episode live from Geneva at Lucid Motors Studio. We're going to talk about a few more specific brands, but I think we'll take the opportunity to zoom out and talk about the show more broadly too. So look forward to that and thank you as always for listening. Thanks to our video editor and audio editor Joe Wyatt. And a special shout out to Will Holloway as well. I don't think he's got a shout out. We love Will. Daddy Will. Thank you all too for listening and we'll see you again tomorrow.