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Hodinkee Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024 | Episode 1

Published on Wed, 10 Apr 2024 00:44:36 +0000

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Synopsis

In this first day coverage of Watches and Wonders 2025 in Geneva, the Hodinkee Radio team discusses the major releases from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe. Recording from Lucid Studio, Ben Clymer, Tony Traina, Danny Milton, and Malaika Crawford share their immediate reactions after publishing nearly 50 stories on the website.

The Rolex discussion centers on relatively conservative updates, including a new GMT Master II with a black and gray ceramic bezel (dubbed the "Coke Zero"), various Day-Date models, and the surprising introduction of a yellow gold Daytona "Le Mans" that replaced the white gold version Ben owns after just six months in production. The most talked-about piece is an absurdly heavy 320-gram yellow gold Deep Sea dive watch. The team agrees that Rolex's restrained approach this year, following last year's hero-heavy releases, feels appropriate for the brand's identity as a maker of enduring, wearable watches rather than hype pieces.

Tudor's releases spark more debate, particularly around the expanding Black Bay line. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT in burgundy and black (nicknamed "Mr. Pibb" or "Dr. Pepper") impresses technically by maintaining the slim profile of the standard Fifty-Eight while adding GMT and date complications. However, the $32,000 yellow gold Black Bay Fifty-Eight on bracelet raises questions about Tudor's positioning relative to Rolex's $38,000 gold Submariner. The team discusses whether Tudor is creating a "stay within the brand" luxury ladder or simply making a high-margin halo piece. There's general consensus that the Black Bay line has become overcrowded and risks losing its distinct heritage identity as it inches closer to resembling modern Submariners.

Patek Philippe's showing is described as quiet but refined, with Ben highlighting an inline perpetual calendar in salmon dial that showcases three patents and represents quintessential Patek elegance. The brand also introduced a world time with a controversial denim-effect leather strap and an Ellipse on a technically complex new bracelet with fourteen patents. The team notes this continues a trend of innovation in bracelet design that often goes underappreciated. Looking ahead, they express excitement for upcoming appointments with Cartier, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, and various independent brands throughout the week.

Transcript

Speaker
Tony Traina Welcome back to Hodinky Radio, recorded live from Lucid Studio in Geneva and proudly sponsored by Lucid Motors, America's most awarded new luxury vehicle in 2023. Join us for a journey into the world of EV and luxury watches, where innovation drives the future
Ben Clymer That was really good, Tony. Thank you
Tony Traina . Ben, we are excited to be in Geneva. Day one of Watches and Wonders is coming to a close. We've posted what almost 50 stories on the site by now, Danny? Fifty stories. And we've done a few meetings. We've all been in a few different meetings over the course of the day.
Ben Clymer We're gonna talk about the biggest brands in the Sw
Tony Traina iss watch industry that we're presenting at Watches and Wonders today. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Tudor. But before we get there, Ben, since they they've already heard your voice, why don't I kick it off to you and tell me what the most exciting or the best thing that you saw today was?
Ben Clymer So can I answer with the best thing that I didn't see today
Tony Traina , please. That would be the yellow g
Ben Clymer old Lamont. R
Tony Traina ight. So the one story we wrote that was about a watch being discontinued was the Rolex Lamon and White Gold that we published your week on the wrist of just a few weeks ago, your personal watch. In
Ben Clymer deed, yeah. And tell us about this yellow g
Tony Traina old Lamon now. So the
Ben Clymer I was about to tell a story that I can't talk
Tony Traina about. So I should not do that, right? Right
Ben Clymer . So the the the Laman, somebody was like, hey, is this thing disc s somebody who owns a Le Mon texted me this morning was like, hey, is this thing discontinued? And I was like, I don't think so. Like this thing just came out in June. There's no way, right? And so then Malaika went onto the site and uh and Googled the reference number and it wasn't found. And then I was like, okay, well, maybe their site just isn't working because like traffic, blah blah blah. And so then I like backed out and went on to the web and Googled the reference And we saw that it it wasn't there. So then I pinged a contact within Rolex and said, Hey, is it true that the Le Mont is discontinued? And her response was incredibly telling. She said, Ben, the version of the Le Mont that you own in White Gold is discontinued. And I was like, what does that mean? Right? Like, what does that mean? And then, of course, some photos leaked onto Instagram that there's a yellow gold version of the Laman already with the red 100 on the bezel and the dial. Um, and uh so this watch is off catalog, meaning we couldn't photograph it nor could we even see it uh as press. Uh we tried. We did try. We're gonna try again. Like let's be clear, we're gonna try again. Um but yeah, yellow gold Laman. Uh but I think that also makes the white gold Laman, I think, the shortest run of any production Rolex in recent history for sure ever. How are you feeling
Malaika Crawford about your white gold right now?
Ben Clymer I think you know the answer. Yeah. Um Um look, I think a yellow gold black dial Daytona is about as as good as it gets. Uh I was telling somebody on the drive over here that so my my birth year watch is a yellow gold daytona with a black dial. So I'm pretty partial to that. But look of
Malaika Crawford course it is. Of course yeah um
Ben Clymer so we didn't see that but we know it exists somewhere out there but it will never be online so so I'm told uh on on the Rolex website. Um but look Rolex of course new GMT some cool day dates, um the big deep sea, no longer a sea dweller, just the deep sea. That that was pretty wild stuff for sure
Tony Traina . About a 320 gram yellow gold dive watch, uh, which we'll get to all of those in a little a little bit more detail in just a second. Yeah. Mileika. Best thing you saw today
Malaika Crawford . Loving this Coke Zero energy
Ben Clymer . So many Coke Zeros today
Tony Traina . We are 50 stories deep, 50 C
Malaika Crawford oke Zeros deep. Yep. Um, I'm gonna say BB 58 Yellow Gold. Wasn't sure I was gonna like that green dial. I liked it.
Tony Traina But we like it. We like it. You you kind of
Danny Milton manifested it-ish. I did.
Malaika Crawford I manifested. I've been manifesting uh a B B fifty four. Not quite, not quite that. Not
Danny Milton quite, not quite. But maybe coming soon.
Ben Clymer In gold you manifested. Yeah. In your predictions. In
Malaika Crawford my prediction. I said they
Tony Traina gave you just a little more gold. Can we talk about
Ben Clymer these things or are we gonna like circle back around? We're circling back. We're talking about the
Tony Traina best thing we saw today. And then we're gonna get back to all of it. Danny, best thing you saw today
Danny Milton . Best thing I saw today, Tony. Tony energy. I'm loving Tony Energy. Tony
Tony Traina 's energy for this podcast. Best thing,
Danny Milton best thing I saw today. Um, I'm gonna go a little boring here and say the like the you know thing that it was unexpectedly the coolest thing I saw today was just the standard black bay from Tudor.
Tony Traina The all black. All black. It's
Danny Milton just, you know, it's the one that no one's really looking at today, but it's like kind of Tudor's modern diver now. It's not like there's really no hints of heritage in it anymore. It's just like a solid monochrome black and white dive watch on the five-link bracelet, it rocks. The uh usually um like press watches don't fit my wrist because they're huge, but with uh the T fit, the one that we had happened to fit.
Tony Traina Yeah. The five-link fit on my risk too. It was nice. Yeah, it's just a pure all-business dive watch from all business. No play. Well, listen, we're going to get back to tutor, but Ben, let's start.
Ben Clymer What was your favorite? Ah, thank you for asking. Tony, what was your favorite watch tod
Tony Traina ay? Uh another vote for the for the fifty-eight for me. The Black Bay fifty eight. No, the the gold. The gold, yeah, the gold. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay. All matte. Thank you. Set sat and finished. Yeah. No rivets on the bracelet. Cool, clean look uh thirty two thousand dollars is a crazy amount of money for a gold diver from two click
Ben Clymer on that we're gonna double click on circle let's
Tony Traina circle back we'll circle back but Ben where do you want to start with Rolex I think the headline is probably GMT just because the GMT is what it is. You're wearing one right now. I'
Ben Clymer m wearing one, so is Mr. Milton. Yes, yeah. Fifty percent of us are wearing GMTs, the other fifty percent. Spring explorers. Mark
Tony Traina off camera raised his hand for us. Pred
Ben Clymer icting it. We are we are alternating.
Tony Traina Ben, tell us what you think about the GMT, and then I'll get your GMT comrade Danny over there.
Ben Clymer Great watch. You know, is it is it the most exciting thing? I think the answer is no. But for somebody that doesn't want a Pepsi or a whatever, I think it's it's a compelling thing. I happen to like black and gray. I'm a big gray guy. I think you guys know that. Um really neat. I think yeah, I think what is um what's neat about this one is that it's available from retail with Jubilee or Oyster. And now, I guess effectively for the first time, you can through your authorized dealer order the other bracelet. And that's kind of, I wouldn't say it's not being advertised, but it's being publicized, which that has never been the case. If you ever wanted to get an additional bracelet from a Rolex dealer, it was kind of a rigamerall to make happen. And this is like we were told that. We didn't told that in the meeting today. So that's kind of cool. You know,
Tony Traina it's a great watch. Uh is it super
Ben Clymer exciting? Definitely not. But you know, it'll do exceptionally well, obviously.
Malaika Crawford How do we feel about GMTs on Jubilees? I'm here for it.
Ben Clymer Oh I love 'em. Oh yeah. Ye
Danny Milton ah. I think we're y un uniformly in agreement on that for sure. I mean I I have the same uh I think um it's not an exciting release, but it's to kind of watch that belongs in the collection. It's like you know, it hasn't been there for a while. Um the lefty was there that kind of
Tony Traina kind of forgot about that took the place
Malaika Crawford of the black, right. we We don't there was no
Danny Milton Remember lefty? Right?
Tony Traina To be clear it's in the catalytic. Still in the catalog. Still in
Danny Milton the catalog. We also have this now black and gray bezel option. It's just, you know, everyone, I think, missed that, that old solid black bezel ceramic GMT, and this kind of brings it back in pure Rolex fashion. Like it's not the same watch. It's slightly different. I'm still not sure how I feel about black and gray ceramic bezels I'm working up to it but um it's a well yeah
Ben Clymer no one you we'll get there we can get there I
Danny Milton 'd like to see how the gray ag
Malaika Crawford es like how that's the whole thing with
Ben Clymer seracrums yeah, but
Malaika Crawford like as in not how it ages like materially. Und
Ben Clymer erstood. Like, you know. Right. A
Malaika Crawford esthetically. Yeah.
Ben Clymer Yeah, yeah, yeah. I th I think grey is never not
Malaika Crawford invoked. That's that's my two. It's coming from a gray guy
Danny Milton . But here''ss I
Ben Clymer mean, it just like it's so funny. Like when the Pepsi came out on on the white gold and then on steel, it was like such a big thing. This is the same wash, just with different colors. It's just amazing that like Pepsi or Coke or whatever means so much to some people. And this just like doesn't.
Danny Milton Almost any other brand, if it was just dial changes, we would probably barely talk about it
Ben Clymer . Right. And here it's like
Danny Milton some color changes. But this is a hot
Tony Traina , sorry to talk over you. This watch also had
Ben Clymer uh it has a green G
Danny Milton Green GMT hand, green GMT master text, yeah. Yeah.
Ben Clymer That like I'm here for that. Yeah. You know?
Tony Traina Anytime Rolex says green anything, I I get a little bit excited, honestly. Um
Malaika Crawford said with enthusiasm. Uh although I have to say in that little tour, you know, we had the little historical walk around tour of uh Yeah
Danny Milton . Um that basically tracks the lineage of the GMT Master, and there's a lot of historically significant pieces in there. Um, and I believe that that will be open during public days for anyone who's going in the Rolex booth to go through that. And you guys had a guided tour. I missed that part.
Malaika Crawford I loved it. I also loved seeing a GMT on the cover of Vogue in nineteen sixty three. It was incredible. It was
Ben Clymer it was amazing. It was cool.
Malaika Crawford And and then my second favorite thing was the um two thousand five is it green dial.
Tony Traina So good. It's so good. I know. I have a
Malaika Crawford thing for two thousand for two thousands watches. What does that say about it? But Mala
Danny Milton ika's talking about like the the I think it's almost the original ceramic GMT
Tony Traina . Which is a
Danny Milton yellow gold watch with about like the loudest green dial in the city. Okay, it's not that
Malaika Crawford loud. It's pretty loud. Okay. It's not like I've c
Danny Milton alled it an after an afterthought of a dial a bit
Ben Clymer . Like it seems like uh
Malaika Crawford I thought it was cool. I would would wear.
Ben Clymer I would wear too. Yeah. I would wear it. Yeah, don't you talk about
Tony Traina green like that for to me. Um one of the coolest things in the exhibit to me was was Jack Swigert's uh GMT 1675 was there and it says that it was worn during the Apollo 13 uh mission which I'm not sure it was public information that Rolex had that watch at least I didn't know it or had forgotten this. Ben, did you did you know if this I
Ben Clymer knew the watch existed? I did not know that they owned it. Everything in that display is owned by Rolex for the first time. Yeah. So even like even last year there were Daytonas, uh, but f they made uh somebody else speaking to made a point to say that we own all of these watches, which is pretty neat
Tony Traina . For example, there was it it's called the Captain Warren six five four two GMT, and it sold at an auction here in Geneva last May. Um W
Ben Clymer ere you in the room for that? Rolex was in the room bidding, I was
Tony Traina in the room uh not bidding, observing. Uh and now it's clear that, you know, it's on display at the at the show here. So it's it's cool to see some of the historical stuff laid out laid out like that. But Ben, enough about the GMT. I mean, I think we've talked about a black and a gray bezel change as much as we can.
Ben Clymer Yeah I think
Tony Traina the the funniest like laugh out loud moment in the Rolex room was the gold, don't call it a sea dweller, deep se
Ben Clymer a. Right. So it's a
Tony Traina 320 gram gold deep C.
Ben Clymer Yeah. How did it feel on your wrist, Ben
Tony Traina ? Big. Yeah. Big and heavy. Yeah. Uh
Ben Clymer titanium case back. And titanium helium is cake valve, which you just gotta love. Like, even in spite of like the absurdity of making a solid gold 3900 meter dive watch, they're still gonna use a titanium case back and uh an Helame escape valve. Uh honestly I thought I could pull it off. You know? I feel like I'm like like dressed a Yachtsman today. I feel like it kind of works
Malaika Crawford . It was the vibe of your outfit for it. I appreciate that. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Ben Clymer Um, it's crazy. Mark Koslerich, who's who's behind the camera over there, has made a point a few times that he saw the the Berkeley Grant Comp, which is now the most complicated watch ever. Uh, and this dive watch weighs about a third of that, which is pretty incredible to give you uh some some scale. Really neat thing. I liked it on Malica, I liked it on all you guys. I mean, it just looks like you pull
Danny Milton it off especially. Well, there are wrist shots. I really appreciate
Ben Clymer it. Of course. Of course. Uh Miss Yell
Tony Traina ow Gold. What else is there to say about uh uh a yellow gold deep sea? I keep wanting to say sea dweller
Malaika Crawford . I mean the sea. Don't say sea dweller. It just kinda reminded me of like, you know, rappers in the nineties. Like a isn't there a picture of like Buster Rhymes or someone with like an obnoxiously large watch just
Tony Traina surely we can just meters under the hundreds of
Danny Milton meters underwater. Thousands really. Thousands.
Malaika Crawford Yeah, yeah. I liked it. I mean, it that's are we being real or are we just leaning into the fantasy?
Tony Traina I think we're leaning into the bit at the end. I don't think Buster R
Danny Milton hymes. I don't I don't I'm not sure he could
Ben Clymer 've. He could've for sure. Um
Malaika Crawford no, I was I I mean look, it was a talking point. We like that
Ben Clymer . I I think Danny, I mean you said it and I'm gonna take full credit here, but like my dream for Rolex was like to kind of do nothing this year. They kinda did nothing.
Danny Milton They basically did nothing. Right. I mean, in a in a great way.
Ben Clymer Yeah. You know, it's like, okay, some new dials on a date on a day date, which you really liked, actually, one that you really like too. Yeah. Um, Laman, which is not even in the catalog, this gigantic 300 gram gold dive watch, like these are really not commercial.
Danny Milton Yeah, Ben, I agree. It does sort of feel like they released nothing in the weirdest way. Like every piece this year feels like in another release year, would it there would have been a hero piece supporting them? Like just a black GMT feels like there should have been the Coke everyone expected, right? And there should have been some crazy day date to support all the other day dates. There should have been, you know, a new, I don't know, 41mm C dweller to support a new deep sea. They all feel like second watches to a bigger release in each category, which is a weird thing. And then the other one just doesn't exist and it exists simultaneously with the Laman. So there' theres's nothing and literally one of
Ben Clymer the nineteen oh eight in platinum. Nineteen oh e
Danny Milton ight and platinum. Exactly. Nice dial, you know. For sure.
Tony Traina Well, they released all their heroes last year, basically. I mean there were what, five, six, seven heroes. Last year was kind
Ben Clymer of stacked. I don't know what
Tony Traina it was all about. So I think I think it's totally fine if they don't have a hero product this year. Is that do you agree with that or no
Ben Clymer ? I do because also some of these watches, like sometimes when you
Danny Milton have like hero pieces, the the hype is so big that they for years become very difficult to to find just because of demand and these feel sort of like mainstays all of them that are just sort of like low key and the kind of watches people would you know buy and keep and have sort of as like a one. Yeah, they're they're not one watch. The
Ben Clymer y're not super hypey. I mean yellow gold lamanic side, of course.
Danny Milton Yeah, yeah, yeah. Um they're they're not super hypey. But
Ben Clymer I mean I think the same can be true for Tudor and Patek. Like
Danny Milton Yes. Maybe this is a palette cle
Malaika Crawford anse, yeah. I think it is.. Yeah I
Tony Traina don't want a Rolex that's releasing uh a Laman for six months and then discontinuing it. I think that's interesting for some people, present company included, I suppose, in that particular case, but that's not like the Rolex that makes Rolex Rolex to use the same word three times in a sentence. Um it's about mak
Ben Clymer ing you know it's about mak
Tony Traina ing the best mass produced watch in in all of Switzerland at least and a watch that ideally people can get. Yeah
Ben Clymer . I mean look, I nothing would make me happier if this time next year I looked over at at least you two and you were wearing that day date that you love and you were wearing the day date that you mig
Danny Milton ht happen, Ben. You you I don't whatever, you know,
Ben Clymer you're gonna have the platinum nineteen oh e
Danny Milton ight, Ben.
Ben Clymer But again, that's like the I think you made a really good point. Like these are watches you live with. They're not like,
Danny Milton hey everybody, check out my new, you know, Le M
Ben Clymer ont or you know, some crazy hyped-up watch. It's just watches you live with. And I think like those those the Rolexes like this that I've had since new in 2015. Like you just live with they're part of your life. It's not like nobody has literally nobody has stopped me to look at this watch
Tony Traina . Right. You know? Uh and that's like kind
Ben Clymer of a good feeling. Also there was so much pre
Danny Milton cious metal like when I when I picked up the GMT after handling like some of the other watches it felt like a titanium watch like I even my my GMT it just felt so light in comparison it was almost aside from GMT I think everything was precious.. Ye
Malaika Crawford ah, you're right Right? Yeah. W
Tony Traina ow. Yeah. Yeah. That's true. Yeah.
Malaika Crawford That's a very insightful point.
Tony Traina This guy. Look at me. Look at me. On a ro
Danny Milton ll. On a roll. Who would've thought Danny tal
Malaika Crawford king about Rolex? I'm here. I'm living for
Ben Clymer it. U
Tony Traina h we've mentioned a few times now the nineteen oh eight. So they introduced the sort of dressy nineteen oh eight collection last year with uh uh
Danny Milton four four dials or two di
Tony Traina als I should say, four watches total total. White, yellow, and then these kind of flat white and black dials, and they've added a a platinum watch to it with in Rolex Rolex fashion. It's it's got an icy blue dial, but it's got this nice guillet finish on it. They're calling it a rice grain, I think. And then there's a another finish on the outside of it. Ben, two years into the nineteen oh eight collection. Uh is it doing anything for you
Ben Clymer ? It is look, uh it's not a watch that's on like on my list to to own anytime soon, but every time I see one, which is not often, in fact, I don't think I've seen one since last B uh not Basel. Watchers and I'm impressed. The movement is really nice, big open, what do you call it? A naked case back? Nude case back. Nude case back. Open case back. Yeah. Um you know, really big gold rotor. It's it's nice. It fills out the case. I mean, it's it's a quality, quality movement for sure.
Tony Traina Yeah, you know, I liked the release last year. Uh it came off not flat, just conservative, I think. The dials were just kind of this matte essentially, and then it's yellow and white gold. It laid the foundation for what could be an interesting dress watch from Rolex. And I think the way they positioned it in their press release was interesting to me. I can't remember the exact wording, but it was something like the home of celebrating, you know, craftsmanship and traditional watchmaking. So if that's thing like things like Gioset Dials, even if it is kind of a, you know, it's not going to be hand guilloshed obviously that's not the scale at which Rolex is producing things but if it's things like that and maybe calendar complications in the future it's it's something that could be really exciting too. But
Ben Clymer I think also just to be clear like hand guilloset like we're we're talking about like a Rose Engine machine or like uh what do you mean by hand like hand like with
Tony Traina a hand turn like engine gas. Yeah, like I don't I fran
Ben Clymer kly don't think anybody with the exception of like Josh Shapiro or like Roger Smith or somebody like that is even doing that anymore, you know.
Malaika Crawford I'm gonna be controversial. Please boy
Ben Clymer here we go. I don't really the
Malaika Crawford guillet thing it doesn't just
Danny Milton like generally it's an old school thing. It doesn't do it
Malaika Crawford for me. No I get that the aesthetic of a guarantee is it trypophobia the little holes try
Danny Milton ptophobia yeah it's freaks
Malaika Crawford me out and and you everybody's always like oh guilloche and I'm like yeah
Tony Traina can you unpack this just the aesthetic doesn't work I think the aest
Malaika Crawford hetic, it reminds me of like those spiral like you know when you're a kid and you get those weird circ circular things and you
Danny Milton put spirogram, yeah. That
Malaika Crawford 's that's that's spira what is it? Spyrograph. It just I don't know. I'm like, okay, cool. Not to like shade on the tradition. No. Yeah
Ben Clymer . So I don't get that. But I do want like I I understand like from an aesthetic point of view. Like it's prudty duddy. It's
Malaika Crawford it's pretty grandpa. Yeah. Like but that
Ben Clymer 's Listen, I'm not say
Malaika Crawford ing I I get it. It's just not for me. Yeah,
Ben Clymer I get it. I think um what
Tony Traina I said about the dials last year, y you know, when you get a thirty nine millimeter dress watch that's basically all dial and then there's no texture in the dial like they had last year, it it makes it look even bigger and you know, slightly boring if you're gonna you put a negative spin on it.
Malaika Crawford Right. Uh I I'm glad they did something
Tony Traina with the dial. Uh I had hoped for some complications, some calendar cutouts, something like that. Um, but it's something and I think it's it's more interesting than last year's release. I
Malaika Crawford quite like a clean clean though. U
Tony Traina h yeah. So you disagree with me is what you're saying
Malaika Crawford . Yeah. I think I'm with Malaika
Tony Traina on this one. Especially for the nineteen oh eight. And the bla
Danny Milton ck you like the plain ones better? Yeah
Tony Traina . I like the bla especially the black one. Yeah.
Malaika Crawford Okay. Yeah. Well, we'll see if you're on the show the
Tony Traina rest of the week. Okay, guys. I think that's gonna wrap up Rolex for us and we're gonna transition to tutor after that. But before we do that, I wanna talk about where we are, where we're recording this podcast. We're at Lucid Studio here in Geneva. We are immersed in the essence of luxury with Lucid Motors here. Every journey is an experience of unparalleled comfort and advanced technology. Lucid Motors commitment to sustainability is not just in its electric innovation, but in every detail of the lucid air's design. Experience a new era of luxury travel with Lucid Motors. Learn more at Lucid Motors.com. And if you happen to be in Geneva, everyone, stay tuned to the website because we're going to be posting about a community event we're going to be having here on Friday evening. There's going to be space for everyone in the community to come by, meet all of us editors, as well as experience Lucid motors and their beautiful electric cars. So stay tuned for all of that and more on the website. And thank you again to Lucid for sponsoring the show all week.
Ben Clymer Is Ben gonna be there? Ben K
Tony Traina lymer? Yeah. Are you gonna be there
Ben Clymer ? I think so. Ben Clymer will be there
Tony Traina for those who wanna wanna Danny Milton and Melica Crawford will also be there for the entirety of the
Malaika Crawford entirety of the show.
Tony Traina As well as other editors you may know and love, Mark Kazlerich, James Stacey. For those fans of of behind the camera work, Will Holloway will also be there, which I know a lot of folks are looking forward to. Joe
Danny Milton Wyatt will also be there. Jonathan
Tony Traina will also be there. A chance to shout out Joe Wyatt and Jonathan McWarter who are on the ones and twos all week doing wonderful work. Uh thank you to you guys. Speaking of uh there's a wonderful word. Speaking of total non sequiturs, speaking of GMTs though, speaking
Danny Milton of being immersed in the essence of luxury. GM
Tony Traina Ts were also the headliners at the Tutor Show, too. We finally got what a lot of people have been asking for, I think. The Tutor Black Bay 58 GMT. Danny, we have to start where we start with any GMT release, I think, from Rolex or Tudor. What's the nickname we're given this watch
Ben Clymer ? I think it's either the uh the Mr. Pib
Danny Milton or the Dr. Pepper. You know, if we're gonna go if we're gonna so does here it's Burgundy and Black.
Malaika Crawford What the hell is Mr. Pib? It's like
Ben Clymer it's like the Pepsi to Coca-Cola, you know?
Danny Milton Yeah. I actually really like Mr. Pip. I did
Malaika Crawford anyway. Is it? Yeah, and f and for
Danny Milton for all like the Jewish deli folk out there, it's like the Dr. Brown's a little bit. Yeah, way worse though. Black cherry. Yeah.
Ben Clymer Significantly worse. Yeah, for for sure, for sure.
Danny Milton I I like the speaking of the Blackway fifty eight GMT. It's watch everyone wanted. I think what everyone really wanted was the you know, the Pepsi version of this watch, but Rolex and Tutor are never going to give you exactly what you want. They're going to give you this kind of watch. Until
Ben Clymer they give you exactly what you want in the Le Monde, I'm just saying
Danny Milton . That's true. Twice. Right. Um and I think this watch is is interesting. It it's everything Tutor's been doing for basically the last decade plus. It's takes a color scheme that we know, Burgundy and Black, which on the Pepsi version of the Tudor GMT, it's technically burgundy and blue, not red and blue. Um, so here we get a lot of guilt um and we get the matte dial but what we get that's really cool about it even though i'm not like thrilled with the color scheme um what i think is very cool about this watch is the fact that it's um only a millimeter thicker than the standard black bay 58. Right. Um, and manages to pack a date complication and a GMT complication into that movement. And I think it's something that needs to be talked about more considering I think it's just been two years since the Black Bay Pro was released. Um, and that's a very thick watch at 39 millimeters. So being the same case diameter, but like to the naked eye, effectively the same sort of profile as the Black Bay 58 makes this very cool. Don't quote me on this, and I think James wrote the story so he would know better than me, but the crown looks redesigned on this watch a little bit too, um, which I think is something that's happening across the Black Bay line. So overall, I like this watch. Um I just, you know, I'm I'm gonna be one of those guys that's waiting for may
Tony Traina be a different different color scheme. Is it too much guilt for you? Is that basically what I it's a lot
Danny Milton , it's a lot of guilt. It's like with the sa I was never really a huge fan of the burgundy black bay to begin with because like the burgundy and the guilt is just very like red yellowy to me. This like a it's not like a refined way of saying that, but that's just how it feels. Just a lot of like
Malaika Crawford it's very sepia toned. Very
Tony Traina sepia toned. And I never I don't like sepia
Danny Milton tone. I like, you know, I'm more of like a black and white or full color, you know?
Ben Clymer So it basically wears like
Tony Traina a fifty-eight on on the wrist, like to be clear. It's they they reworked the way it's structured, the sapphire, the dial, and and the movement on the inside to to get it down to whatever it is
Danny Milton . It's a tenure. All right, two fact checks here. We'll do it live. The crown it's a crown's redesign, but also it is just a tenth of a millimeter thicker than the Black Bay fifty eight, which is even better than it being a millimeter thicker than the bigger So that's why it wears like
Tony Traina the Black Bay. Exactly.
Danny Milton But I think the I think the thing about it
Ben Clymer which is so interesting to me is like imagine Rolex added a GMT complication to the Samariner. That's basically what they did. Yeah, right? It's like I I think I understand the critique of the guilt and the the colors. But to me, the the takeaway is that thirty nine millimeter GMT, same dimensions, thickness wise date. It's it like on paper it's an incredible one. Yes. Uh the Blackbay fifty eight is probably the watch I wear the most. I wear the watch all the time
Tony Traina . Um so having that with
Ben Clymer a GMT and a date is incredible. The fact that that that exists alongside currently the Black Bay GMT, right? Or I guess it's just called the GMT.
Danny Milton Uh Blackba By G GMMT.lackbayT.
Ben Clymer So not Blackbay 58 GMT. Right. Right. Right. Right. That's that's the Pepsi one. That's 41 and thicker. It's just like, why unless you really love the Pepsi, why would you buy the bigger watch if you're it al
Danny Milton most seems like it's an like an aesthetic choice at this point for a tutor
Ben Clymer . Yeah. Not like a technical
Danny Milton problem. I I've I've said this on another podcast recently
Ben Clymer . I like I'm the biggest tutor fan. Love them, love the people, love everything about them. The line is getting jumbled. There's too many black bays. To
Danny Milton o many black bays. Yeah. A lot of B
Ben Clymer B. We said this on the preview pod. We said it would be
Tony Traina a decent year if they didn't add to the Black Bay line basically and just kind of cleaned it up and brought everything with within line with each other, bracelets, cases, all these types of things, but they gave us more more black bait, even more black bait. Ye
Ben Clymer ah, I mean, look, uh the the the critique levied against our friends at AP is that it's like a monoproduct brand. Tutor is a monoproduct brand. Yeah. Right. I mean look, you get an AP Royal Chronograph, retro calendar, blah blah blah like tutor's the same thing. It's all blackback.
Danny Milton It wasn't Blackbait except for and what what was the other one
Tony Traina ? The other one? What was the other one?
Ben Clymer Oh what was it called? The tables have turned the the ClairePinto? No, the uh there we go. I feel re I feel redeemed.
Danny Milton The
Ben Clymer Claire. And like you're writing that up for us, right
Malaika Crawford ? Can't wait. Intro coming soon. Um
Ben Clymer can't wait. Um look the the the watches are good. I'm just you know it's it's a weak critique on my part, but it's just like if they called it something else, I would be like But that AP
Malaika Crawford parallel I think doesn't work because there's something about the DNA of the royal oak that is like so like strong.
Ben Clymer Now sure. I guess cause
Malaika Crawford over time it's like so imprinted in our sort of 19
Tony Traina 72 and not 2012 or whatever.
Malaika Crawford So it's like evolved and evolved and evolved. And I don't think that's really I don't know, that's a weird parallel
Ben Clymer . Weird guy. It's I I we were say
Danny Milton ing this on the ride over here though. It's like I I missed the days where Tudor had the Black Bay but we're still innovating on the fringes whether it was the North flag heritage chrono advisor like there's
Ben Clymer of course yeah pelagos which is still there obviously
Danny Milton but but then you're then you're talking about like just divers. Like if it's not Blackbail, as somebody who
Malaika Crawford really didn't know anything about Tudor until two years ago. Um, all I know is like I all I think of is Blackbail. I do not think of anything else other than the Pelagos 'cause of James Stacey, but that's it.
Danny Milton James Stacey wearing a Pelagos off camera.
Malaika Crawford Yeah. Yeah. Watches and wonders the last two years
Tony Traina have been blackbase. Yeah
Danny Milton , right? Yeah. Yeah. Right. Royal, some Ro
Ben Clymer yal. It was mixed in there. Sure. Danny.
Tony Traina . Whatever Give me a ranger.
Danny Milton Yeah. I'll give you a ranger. Yeah. That would be
Ben Clymer right. That was a lot of watches and wonders release, though
Tony Traina , I suppose. Um Melica, our favorite. Our favorite watch maybe of the entire day was a Black Bay fifty eight. It was people with the discerning eyes. Those with discerning taste. What did we think of the black bay fifty eight on the rest? Loved it
Malaika Crawford . Honestly loved it. I I thought I was gonna maybe not love it as much because that green is sort of sometimes unsettling to me. But I think because the bracelet is all gold and it's like not on a strap, you the green kind of works, you get enough gold. It's a lot of gold. And it also somehow looks like a Tudor shade of gold.
Danny Milton Yes. Yeah. Yeah, I think so to
Tony Traina be clear we're talking. It still has it.
Malaika Crawford It's still it's still got that little hint of Tudor. It's like a Tudor alloy. It'
Danny Milton s because it's so brushed too. I think it's entirely satin finished. Yeah, yeah. To
Tony Traina be clear, we're talking about the fact that they added a bracelet
Malaika Crawford right to the fifty-eight, the black bay fifty eight
Tony Traina in gold that they released three years ago, maybe which I went back and read James's hands hands on. I think a lot of people were asking, can we get a bracelet on this thing? So I'm glad three years later we've got it
Malaika Crawford . Tutor said yes, Tom. I did ask for a BB fifty four in yellow gold. Um and I would like that to come true. You know, I think that could be cool.
Ben Clymer Yeah. I think like the the like I I also love the gold fifty eight. Super cool. Um I think the pragmatic side of me, if there is one, is the price is really high.
Malaika Crawford Bit weird. Yeah. So look, it the the
Ben Clymer retail price, I I believe, and you can fact check me here in in the notes, is thirty two thousand USD, correct. Price of a gold submariner is at most thirty eight. I think it might even be less, thirty-seven, thirty-six. So a gold sub, which is the flagship diver, and then a gold black bay. Where
Malaika Crawford you going? Where you going if you have the choice
Danny Milton ? Don't make me answer that questi
Tony Traina on. It's an interesting I
Ben Clymer mean to put them that close in price is really quite curious. I could see okay, if the sub is thirty eight, tutors twenty eight, right? Ten thousand, that's a meaningful difference. But if you're already spending over thirty on a watch. Like what's four
Danny Milton weeks. So what's the brand message here
Malaika Crawford then? You tell me. With that price point. Are we like are we looking to expand into sort of other things? I
Tony Traina think it's maybe a Halo thing where you're they're not gonna sell a ton of these, I wouldn't imagine. You're not gonna see a ton of these on the line probably
Ben Clymer right, make the money on it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Th
Tony Traina ere's a huge margin on it, I would imagine. And it's hey, we've got a thirty thousand dollar watch. Um, and everything else in the catalog doesn't look so insane, I suppose.
Ben Clymer No, you're right. I mean honestly there there there's a it's small, but it exists. There's a group of people, some of which I know that are kind of anti Rolex but love tutor. And some of these guys make some money. And so maybe it's just it's as you said, it's a small batch product, uh high margin small batch product, and they'll sell it to the tutor guys and that's okay.
Tony Traina Well in the reality is I mean, tutor makes a hell of a product for the money, but with the meta certification and the the manufacturer and the look like prices are going up when they introduce these these things. Um and I think a thirty thousand dollar watch uh kind of helps reorient the conversation a little bit. I think it'
Ben Clymer s also I mean I I was I agree
Danny Milton with Ben and now I'm sort of like playing devil's advocate because I'm thinking about this, but I think every brand wants to create this sort of like stay within the brand universe, brand loyalty situation. So yeah, start here, aspire here, go here, go here. Um so like obviously like in the modern context, right now it feels weird, but who knows where Tudor will be ten, fifteen years from now. And so I don't know, just to have that ability and capability to set precedent to have a yellow gold watch. You just you you never know. U
Ben Clymer h to be fair, I'm not mad at it. Yeah, no, me neither
Danny Milton . That's sort of what I was asking, right? Like
Malaika Crawford what is Tudor saying about its future? Right
Danny Milton . And maybe it's like pretty comp
Ben Clymer feeling feeling itself right now. You know, I will
Malaika Crawford say though what's cool about that gold and the reason why I mean I make jokes about it not being quite the shade of gold I desire, but I think that brush it's giving
Ben Clymer it's giving bronze. It's not g
Malaika Crawford iving bronze. I will say though, like that brushed aesthetic, it works for the guy who prefers Tudor who maybe wants to wear a gold watch and doesn't want to look as flashy, right? Because it's gold without that like intent.
Ben Clymer For the James Stacy type. It's fit it's J
Malaika Crawford ames Stacy's gold watch. It's Jim Sta
Danny Milton cy gold for sure. It's a
Malaika Crawford little bit more subdued. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah
Tony Traina . And uh a footnote, but there's no rivets on the Black Bay 58 bracelet. It's a really good
Ben Clymer good point. They said it was just a kind of an aest
Tony Traina hetic choice. I don't believe that. I think some people will be uh curious to see that. I think it's a sign of things to come, per se. You think so? Yeah. One more Black Bay release we had, Danny. I think you were the one that wrote this up this morning was. I think it's just called the Black Bay. The Bla
Danny Milton ck Bay. Uh and it's basically a mono
Tony Traina chromatic black bay, the most modern looking black bay we have now.
Danny Milton The Black Bay is inching closer and closer to being a sub
Tony Traina mariner. That's what's happening. I mean Tud
Danny Milton or has basically taken what was once this like huge, you know, the big crown aesthetic that now kind of looks like a Submariner crown. The bezel was coin edge, now it's teethy and looks like a Submariner bezel. The dial was matte, now it's sunray, lo itoks like you know almost a gloss submariner
Malaika Crawford . It's uh we're we'
Danny Milton re almost at the singularity. Like I don't know what happens when the black bay innovates to the point where it is a submariner.
Malaika Crawford It becomes one. Exactly. And I don't I
Danny Milton don't know what where we end up. It's the same, it's almost the same conversation as a gold Black Bay 58. Like at a certain point, it's not big brother, little brother anymore. I don't I don't know where we are, but I do think it's it's nice to have a Black Bay that doesn't feel like the heritage black bay at
Ben Clymer all. Yeah. Um, and especially on
Danny Milton the five link bracelet, because you don't have faux rivets, um, that feels like a modern watch. And that's the first time I've looked at a black bay and said that's a modern, a modern looking watch. W
Ben Clymer ell it kind of feels like I mean, having worked with Tudor for a long time now, like it kind of feels like they're growing up and then like in in the early days they were kinda like bashful and they're like, Whoa whoa whoa, like we're the little guy over here, like we would never step on Rolex's toes 'cause like how how could we, you know? And now they're like, like, let's just do what we want.
Malaika Crawford Except for that pink dial social caption the other day where they sort of said, What it what did it say? We made these pink dials. We know they're not for everyone.
Danny Milton Did you see that? It was very it was very
Malaika Crawford like, here's a pink doll, but oops, like if you don't like it, like it's fine.
Danny Milton I was I was reading, I was reading in the press, the press materials. They were like, we realized this isn't for everyone. Ye
Malaika Crawford ah. And we're not making that many of them. Anyt
Tony Traina hing else on the black bay discussion, guys? Can we leave it there
Malaika Crawford ? Let's leave it.
Danny Milton Let's just leave it. We're blackbait
Tony Traina out. Okay. The last appointment that some of us actually I think only one of us on the couches here was able to go to today was was Paddock.
Danny Milton That's embarrassing. Ben. It's embar
Tony Traina rassing for us three, I suppose. Um Ben, you started your day off at at Paddock.
Ben Clymer Yeah. Uh a number of new releases from them
Tony Traina . I think the one that you even wrote up for us on the website, which everyone should obviously go read now.
Ben Clymer I even wrote a story for it. Is the inline per
Tony Traina petual fifty two th
Ben Clymer irty-six P I think? Fifty-two thirty-six
Tony Traina P Sam and Dial. Yeah. Tell us about that watch and why you wanted to write it
Ben Clymer . I love it. Um Nice. All right.
Danny Milton Good?
Ben Clymer So the the inline perpetual calendar is something that so a as as you may or may not know, Petech Fleep invented the pet the perpetual calendar wristwatch, nineteen twenty five. In the early nineteen seventies, they created a inline perpetual calendar pocket watch. Jean Claude Beaver actually had one in our talking watches, I believe. Uh really neat, really technical, and of course, like allows you to read the display of a prepetual calendar linearly, which is like, okay, it's Saturday, September 15th, 19 so-and-so. Like it makes a lot of sense. So it is kind of like uh, I don't want say to the holy grail, but many people in Watch Bank have tried to do linear display of perpetual calendars. PetTech did it in twenty twenty-one in the same watch, just with a blue dial. But September I'm sorry, uh Watches and Wonders twenty twenty-one was like peak COVID, right? It was the fair. I don't even think there was a fair. It was digital, right? So like that watch wasn't shown in person, therefore, I didn't see it in person at Watches of Wonders, not that I'm important, but like just nobody saw it. But it existed in the catalog and like, okay, like it's around, but wasn't really paid attention to. And then this year they brought back the same watch, just new dial. Salmon dial, black numerals, or not numerals, black uh baton markers, black uh hands. And it just like hits every note that a Patek guy like me would like. Platinum case, technically really innovative, three patents in it. Um, it's got a case that's like a 3448, if you know what that is. Um, just a killer watch that like, you know, if I were in the market for a perpetual, this would be right up there.
Danny Milton Can I just say you went from being speechless to that? That was pretty insane.
Ben Clymer That was really impressive. It's all back there. Pull it out. Um so that was really neat. But again, that's not a new watch.. It's just a new dial But like with Pet Tech and like Rolex, it's like okay, a new dial can mean a lot. And with Pet Tech it really does. Um so platinum salmon is big, but there was a lot of other stuff too, but in many ways Pet Tech was a little bit Rolex this year, and like, okay. was There the world time that we saw that you saw at the grand exhibition.
Danny Milton Yeah, in Tokyo. Now in White Gold
Ben Clymer with for the the the general catalog. Um this
Tony Traina is let's stop on the world time just for a second. Fifty three thirty G
Ben Clymer Right. Danny saw the purple dial
Tony Traina purple dial guilloset at the Tokyo Grand Exhibit. There purple di
Malaika Crawford al guilloset. Sorry.
Ben Clymer She's literally shuddering. Two strik
Danny Milton es. I forget how limited that watch was, but it was like
Tony Traina 300. 300. Yeah, and only for Japan. Yeah
Danny Milton , only for Japan. And they were all spoken for by the time I had seen them. Right. Yeah.
Tony Traina So now it's in the current catalog. Uh and it's got kind of this blue opaling gray dial, I think they call it. It's got this kind of carbon uh thing in the middle that you you might recognize from the six thousand seven a few years ago
Ben Clymer . And the the other world time chronograph in Sam. Yeah,
Tony Traina right, right, right. James Stacy's favorite watch. Great watch. Um any thoughts on the world time from from Ben or from Danny?
Malaika Crawford Strap strap first. Oh.
Ben Clymer Oh. Can they talk about the denim stra
Tony Traina ps? That really is the strap. The Canadian the Canadian
Danny Milton strap. Forget everything I just said to
Tony Traina come up the world time. Let's talk about let'
Malaika Crawford s talk about the denim straps.. It's the denim strap
Ben Clymer I I'm sure we're getting some comments about them too.
Tony Traina They're in two watches. They're in the world time that I just took all this time to explain that we're probably not even going to talk about. Yep. As well as in a new fifty n
Ben Clymer ine eighty. What are those things
Tony Traina like in person, Ben? The strap? Yes. So
Ben Clymer the straps are calf. They're leather. Okay. Den
Malaika Crawford im effect. Denim effect, exactly. What does that me
Tony Traina an though? Uh like a like an embossing,
Ben Clymer basically. Um Melica rightly pointed out that a lot of homage due to uh a lot of credit due to our friend Travis Scott.
Malaika Crawford And Cactus Jack and that slack chat that we all had about a denim strap.
Danny Milton That's right. I was in defense of.
Malaika Crawford Right. Yeah. Yeah. I mean I would say the cact
Ben Clymer us jack strap is dead. I'm just like not a blue dead.
Danny Milton Right. Um it's really neat. U
Ben Clymer h it is so weird to see on a patch. Uh in particular, like the Nautilus is kind of like a, you know, it's a hypey watch, like I kinda get it, like it's a younger watch. But this world time is like world time is like one of the most quintessentially pat tech elegant, you know, kinda highly re regarded complications. So to see there is pretty weird.
Malaika Crawford Is this the sort of attempt at being a little bit kooky. But
Ben Clymer they've been doing I mean they've been trying that for years in so many different ways, but the answer is yes. This is a continued attempt to be kooky by
Malaika Crawford I kinda like it. Me too. Yeah. Look, you
Ben Clymer can also change a strap real easy. Yeah. So it's like, you don't like it, just swap it out. You know? Um but the w the world time is really neat. Um but again, it just was like a lot of new versions of existing 51
Danny Milton 64, which is an awesome aquanut. James Stacey loves that
Ben Clymer . He does. Um you know, it wasn't a super revelatory year. I will say a a highlight uh and I think one we'll get a lot of comments on is the new ellipse on the bracelet. Ye
Danny Milton ah, bracelet looks like an old style
Ben Clymer mesh bracelet, but I think there's how many patents on that, James?
Danny Milton Fourteen patents on a pattern. So this mor
Malaika Crawford ning when I was writing up the intro, I was really struggling to get the information about the bracelet into like one paragraph. I sort of gave up and yeah, it's it's technical. Yeah. And and it's sort of half of it is like C and C machinery, the other half is like hand finished. It's complicated.
Ben Clymer Yeah. It's it's you know, again, I think a lot of people that haven't experienced pit tech, maybe the way that I have over the years, just kind of like, okay, like it's high end brand, we know that, but you don't really understand how hard they go sometimes. They can go really hard. And on this bracelet I think I think they did. Well, I
Malaika Crawford was just explaining to Tony that I've been trying to write this Patek bracelet article for about twelve months. And it's hard because there are so many different like manufactures and types of bracelet and types of gold and it's kind of crazy.
Tony Traina I'm glad that we're seeing innovation, I guess, if you want to call it that in the bracelet marketplace. I think uh
Ben Clymer I don't know if it's an inn is quite
Tony Traina funny. Wasn't sorry.
Malaika Crawford You're funnier than you think you're rational
Tony Traina , which is concerning because that makes you more than a innovation in the bracelet marketplace
Ben Clymer . Sorry.
Tony Traina Uh I think too often bracelets are if not an afterthought, we focus on the we do this, we're as guilty as this as anyone when we when we write about a watch. We talk about the watch and not the rest of it that's on a bracelet. Uh,
Malaika Crawford speak for your bracelet. Speak for yourself. I will say that
Tony Traina .
Malaika Crawford That's part of the appeal of Cartier, and I think a lot of the reason why like you guys sometimes are so drawn to it without even realizing like those are sick bracelets. Es
Danny Milton pecially last year. Yeah. Like normal
Malaika Crawford bracelet. Yeah. Come on. Yeah. It's a sick bracelet. It is a sick bracelet. Um and yes, I agree, like Patek doing this ellipse on a bracelet, that's sort of like a nod to this design led kind of direction, maybe. I don't know.
Ben Clymer Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, really nice. Yeah. But again, a a a a quiet year
Tony Traina . Yeah, for sure. Um from from Pat Te
Ben Clymer ch and that's okay. Yeah. Ye
Tony Traina ah. I think last year was such a big year for the watch industry and we're still coming out of all of that. I think if that's the general theme of the show, I'm I'm not too concerned with that. I think uh I think it's good to keep see a continued cooling down in the space. Anything else you want to say before we move on, Ben from Paddock
Ben Clymer ? No. Well guys,
Tony Traina we saw we went to three, four, maybe five appointments, depending on who we were today. Rolex Tutor and Paddock, as we talked about, kind of some of the headliners from from the show, but we've still got a week of appointments lined up. Um I'm sure we're gonna talk about a few of them tomorrow. Brands like Cartier, Tag, Hoyer, Grand Seiko. Gr
Ben Clymer and Seiko had some good ones. It's
Danny Milton really good on the side.
Ben Clymer This is all part of them. This is all part of the 5
Tony Traina 0-ish articles that we wrote. Guys, I want to go around real quick before we end out the show, what you are most excited to see that we may have written up on the site that we haven't gotten to see yet. Danny, start it off
Danny Milton . Um, all right, I'm gonna do two. One is the Tag Hoyer Monaco, which I have had a chance to see already.
Ben Clymer Split second. Split second Racher P
Danny Milton ont, which is a play off of the OnlyWatch, uh in two colors, a red and black and a blue with a blue gradient. Uh just a we talked about Halo pieces earlier. That's what this is for Taghoyer.
Ben Clymer $130,000 Boshe kind of RME type of thing. Like a Rishard mill
Tony Traina , but that's Taghoir. Yeah.
Danny Milton The Tag Hoyer way. Exactly. So I'm excited to see that. Um also excited to see that funky Zenith diver. You know the or the orange one? Well the the Zenith Defy revival. You
Ben Clymer looked directly at the dive watch. You
Danny Milton know what I'm talking about? Is that when you you're most excited
Tony Traina to see that too, Melica? No comment
Malaika Crawford . Um I no comment
Danny Milton . But for real, I think that watch looks um I it was w the way that this thing works, you know, we we get sometimes we we get information about watches in advance. This one came in very close to Watches and Wonders timing and wasn't expecting a Zenithiver thirty-seven millimeters
Malaika Crawford . Uh they were surprisingly well
Tony Traina . Yeah, okay, that sort of chang
Malaika Crawford es it. I didn't know it was that. And
Danny Milton I did not realize that in 1969, which is the year the Zenith El Primero came out, that the Zenith DeFi was also released and the DeFi diver, which was a 600-meter dive watch, which is like very impressive. So the same year you're doing an automatic chronograph, you're doing that, and this is like a basically a one to one reissue. They even like replicate the seventies bracelet. I got a bit of a I got a bit
Ben Clymer of an speaking of bracelets. It's that re
Malaika Crawford issue thing that sort of winds me up, but you did you
Tony Traina you did say before it is not the seventies right now
Malaika Crawford . It's not the seventies, it's twenty twenty four. That's true. That's true. Just letting the people at home know. Um anyway, yes, sorry.
Tony Traina Most excited to see tomorrow? Or throughout the week
Malaika Crawford ? Probably quartier
Ben Clymer . Uh I
Malaika Crawford guess a bunch of stuff. Your uh your watch that you're most excited about at Cartier?
Tony Traina What am I most excited about? Yeah, just do it. I g
Malaika Crawford ather the mic and tell me
Tony Traina , yeah. Yeah, tell him. I could I could do it.
Malaika Crawford I can do it too. Do you want to do it?
Danny Milton Yeah, I think. Three, two, one, two, two. Or
Malaika Crawford two. Ah, sure.
Tony Traina I you know, the monopusher is not my thing, actually.
Malaika Crawford Oh, come on, Tony. Stop.
Tony Traina No, it was it was one of the first before Cartier was like the thing. That was one of the first like watches to have its moment, right? It was so odd. It like really popped in value in 20, I don't know when this was, 2018, 2019. It all kind of runs together. Uh it I get it. Uh I get the sort of lineage and the connection to the independent watchmakers and THA and all these types of things. I love the shape. As mentioned, I have a tortuous I've been wearing around a little bit. Um but the the mono pusher case is a little bit big for me, but that's that's just me. But I I am excited to see the time only ones, but that makes me extremely boring. Um Ben, what are you excited about
Ben Clymer ? Oh man. Uh all the Cartier stuff for sure. Oh actu
Malaika Crawford ally I didn't even tell you what I was excited about
Ben Clymer back to you, Malek.
Danny Milton I just said
Malaika Crawford I think the the there are these weird gem set animals that I'm kind of excited about. That'
Danny Milton s always the most fun stuff on the internet. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like,
Malaika Crawford and to be clear, only Cartier could make gem set animals that I would be excited about. I think if that came from any other brand, I'd be like, uh, but those are looking pretty cool. And then they've got this new bangle, not quite the Benoit Bangle, but sort of a little bit in that vein. So I did about that. Nice
Danny Milton . I'm also excited about the Santos Dumont uh rewind. Yeah,
Ben Clymer the reverse time. That's cool.
Malaika Crawford That's cool. More Cartier talk tomor
Tony Traina row. I think we've got our appointment tomorrow afternoon. So come back for the full the full scoop on all that stuff. Ben, you were saying?
Ben Clymer I'll go to the other end of the spectrum, like the anti-Cartier, uh, which to me is probably Grant Seiko. Uh so they have a new watch called the SBG Mark, what is it
Danny Milton ? S G L W S G L W Zero Zero
Ben Clymer Two is the goal. Okay, that's all I need. S G L W Zero Zero Two. Okay. So Grant Seco has this new watch called the Sorry.
Tony Traina S L. S L G W
Ben Clymer . Okay.
Danny Milton S V G what's it called, Mark?
Ben Clymer S L G W Zero Z
Tony Traina ero T. So if I get that wrong, somebody just correct
Ben Clymer me on camera. S-L-G-W002. So Grand Seiko has a swatch called the SGLW S
Danny Milton LGW SLGW0
Ben Clymer 02, which is a uh a high beat uh hand wound thinner uh movement. And so I think you know I as a as a lover and retailer and and kind of partner of Grand Seiko, you know, they they do some incredibly beautiful things. I think the thing that has been challenging in recent years has been the hand wound stuff has been a little bit too thick, which is kind of like antithetical to what I think a hand wound watch should be. So I love I haven't seen them yet, but to see that they're they're doing these hand wound high beat movements thinner, super high end finish as well for Grand Seiko, will will be really neat. Um the other one that of course I have to mention is uh Langa. Datagraph perpetual turbion lumen etc um is just a big bad watch uh and as like a watch guy that that gets me going and then of course the the datagraph uh in white gold which they've never done before. So excited to see those as well. G
Tony Traina et you a little excited? Not like T
Ben Clymer ony excited, but excited, you know?
Tony Traina Well listen, I think tomorrow we've got Taghorrier, we've got Cartier, we've got IWC, we've got Grand Seiko, Longa, we've got all of these appointments lined up. So if any of those brands are even remotely exciting to you.
Danny Milton Wait, what are you excited to see, Tony? I
Tony Traina went on like a three minute diatribe about the Tortuo
Danny Milton . Yeah, yeah, yeah. Where were you
Tony Traina ? Well, we told you what you were excited to see. That
Danny Milton 's my bad. Yeah, yeah. I feel like you had your own. I didn't want to steal your thunder
Tony Traina . I've spent enough time talking about the tour 2 that I think we kind of that ship has sailed. And all of the brands I just mentioned, we'll be talking about those. And throughout the rest of the week, we've got dozens of other brands. A lot of stuff to do.
Ben Clymer Yep. I mean, there's 54 brands at Watches
Tony Traina and Wonders. There's got to be more than 200 brands that are displaying throughout Geneva. Uh, I I spent and I both spent a little bit of Monday at the at the Beau Rivage talking to some of the smaller indies and and more micro brand boutique brands. Uh we sit sat down with with Nevada Grenshin and Guillaume and Theo Alfre. Some of the weird stuff that they're cooking up is really fun. So that's a
Ben Clymer cool watch, by the way. Sorry to interrupt. Yeah
Tony Traina , yeah, yeah. I mean, which watch we talk about in video?
Ben Clymer I mean all of them, but the the Ofrey with Peterman Badat
Tony Traina . Yes. Only watch. Yes, the only watch. So Theo Ofre stumbles in
Ben Clymer . He was in a car. He was driving all the watches in his car.
Tony Traina Pulls the watches out of the trunk, a bunch of space one sweatshirts, and he shows us on his wrist he's got the only watch that he did in collaboration with with Peterman B Day. Really, really cool watch, a massive balance wheel, just really conservative aesthetic. Uh beautiful watch, cool to sit down and and hear what him and Guillaume are cooking up. But we'll talk more about all of that stuff throughout the rest of the week, guys. For now, um thank you for listening to day one of Watches and Wonders, Kodinky Radio, straight from Lucid Motors in Geneva.
Ben Clymer Yeah, thank you for putting up with that one guys. That was tough.
Malaika Crawford Oh, it was alright. That was a good one. Oh, o
Ben Clymer kay. It's an all-timer in my opinion.